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ALBEMARLE COUNTY
IN VIIIGIMIA
Giving some account of wHat it -was by nature, of \srHat it was made by man, and of some of tbe men wHo made it.
By Rev. Edgar Woods
" It is a solemn and to\acKing reflection, perpetually recurring. oy tHe -weaKness and insignificance of man, tHat -wKile His generations pass a-way into oblivion, -with all tKeir toils and ambitions, nature Holds on Her unvarying course, and pours out Her streams and rene-ws Her forests -witH undecaying activity, regardless of tHe fate of Her proud and perisHable Sovereign.**— ^e/frey.
rs5
E.NEW YORK
.Lie LIBRARY 26390
Copyright 1901 by Edgar Woods.
•► -•
THE MicHiE Company, Printers,
Charlottesville, Va.
1901.
PREFACE.
An examination of the records of the county for some in- formation, awakened curiosity in regard to its early settle- ment, and gradually led to a more extensive search. The fruits of this labor, it was thought, might be worthy of notice, and productive of pleasure, on a wider scale.
There is a strong desire in most men to know who were their forefathers, whence they came, where they lived, and how they were occupied during their earthly sojourn. This desire is natural, apart from the requirements of business, or the promptings of vanity. The same inquisitiveness is felt in regard to places. Who first entered the farms that checker the surrounding landscape, cut down the forests that once covered it, and built the habitations scattered over its bosom? With the young, who are absorbed in the engagements of the present and the hopes of the future, this feeling may not act with much energy ; but as they advance in life, their thoughts turn back with growing persistency to the past, and they begin to start questions which perhaps there is no means of answering. How many there are who long to ascertain the name of some ancestor, or some family connection, but the only person in whose breast the coveted knowledge was lodged, has gone beyond the reach of all inquiry. How many interesting facts of personal or domestic concern could have been communicated by a parent or grandparent, but their story not being told at the opportune season, they have gone down irrecoverably in the gulf of oblivion.
Public affairs are abundant y recorded. Not only are they set forth in the countless journals of the day, but scores of ready pens are waiting to embody them in more permanent form in histories of our own times. Private events— those connected with individuals and families— are less frequently committed to writing. They may descend by tradition through one or two generations, and then perish forever
IV PREFACE
from the memory of mankind. Some general facts may be found in local records ; but memorials of this kind are dry and monotonous in their nature, and never resorted to by ordinary readers. Their contents are soon lost sight of except by the antiquarian, or by those who are compelled by professional duty to unearth them from the forgotten past.
Such considerations induced the collection of the facts compiled in this volume. They were taken mainly from the county archives ; in cases where they were derived from tradi- tion, or where suggestions were made from conjecture, it is generally so stated. Except in a few particulars, the narra- tive was not designed to extend to the present generation.
Some matters that may be of interest to many, may be found in the appendix. To some now living in the county, and to others descended from those who once lived in it, the long list of names therein inscribed may show in some meas- ure how their ancestors were employed, whither their wander- ings led, or at what time they passed away from the present scene of action.
July 1st, 1900.
CHAPTKR I.
The settlement of Virginia was a slow and gradual pro- cess. Plantations were for the most part opened on the water courses, extending along the banks of the James, and on the shores of the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries. It was more than a century after the landing at Jamestown before white men made the passage of the Blue Ridge. As soon as that event was noised abroad, it was speedily fol- lowed up, and in the space of the next twenty years the tide of population had touched the interior portions of the colony, one stream pushing westward from the sea coast, and another rolling up the Shenandoah Valley from the wilds of Pennsylvania.
Besides the restless spirit animating the first settlers, the occupation of the country was hastened by the rage for spec- ulation. The laws of the colony allotted fifty acres for every person transported into its territory ; and men of wealth, in addition to availing themselves of this provision, largely invested their means in the purchase of land. While the wilderness was thus peopled, the institutions of civil government did not linger far behind. As growing numbers reached the frontiers, and were removed a great distance from the seats of justice and trade, these necessities of civilized life were soon established. One by one, the older counties were cut in two, the limits of the new ones stretch- ing westward as far as the limits of the colony itself. Those recently formed were at first represented by public buildings made of logs, and by the scattered clearings and cabins of the pioneers ; but men of knowledge and experience were always at hand to hold the reins of government and admin- ister the laws. At once the courthouse was erected, and the power of the magistrate exerted to preserve peace and order in the community.
The county of Goochland was formed in 1727, a little more than ten years after Gov. Spotswood's expedition to the Blue Ridge. The first settlements within the present
2 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
bounds of Albemarle were made v^^hile they were still parts of that county and Hanover. They ascended the courses of the South Anna, the James, the Rivanna and the Hard- ware, and were met by others proceeding from the foot of the Blue Ridge, and planted by immigrants who had come up the Valley, and crossed that mountain at Woods' Gap.
The first patents were taken out on June 16, 1727. On that day George Hoomes obtained a grant of thirty-one hundred acres "on the far side of the mountains called Ches- cut, and said to be on the line between Hanover and Spot- sylvania," and Nicholas Meriwether a grant of thirteen thousand seven hundred and sixty-two acres "at the first ledge of mountains called Chesnut," and said to be on the same line. That was the first appropriation of the virgin soil of Albemarle, as it is at present. These locations occurred in the line of the South Anna River, up which the increasing population had been slowly creeping for a number of years. The patent to Nicholas Meriwether included the present seat of Castle Hill, and the boundaries of the Grant, as it was termed by way of eminence, were marks of great notoriety to surveyors, and others interested in the descrip- tion of adjacent lands, for a long period afterwards.
The next patent for twenty-six hundred acres was obtained nearly two years later by Dr. George Nicholas. This land was situated on James River, and included the present village of Warren. In the year following, 1730, five additional patents were issued : one to Allen Howard for four hundred acres on James River, on both sides of the Rockfish at its mouth ; one to Thomas Carr for twenty-eight hundred acres on the Rivanna at the junction of its forks, and up along the north fork ; one to Charles Hudson for two thousand acres on both sides of the Hardware, the beginning evidently of the Hudson plantations below Carter's Bridge; one to Secretary John Carter for nine thousand three hundred and fifty acres "on the Great Mountain on Hardware in the fork of the James," and to this day called Carter's Mountain; and one to Francis Eppes, the grandfather of Mr. Jefferson's son-in-law of the same name, for six thousand four hundred
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 3
acres "on the branches of the Hardware, Rockfish, and other branches of the James" — one of the branches of Hard- ware being still known as Kppes Creek. The same year Nicholas Meriwether located four thousand one hundred and ninety acres more, adjoining his former tract, and running over the South West Mountain on Turkey Run, taking out an inclusive patent for seventeen thousand nine hundred and fifty-two acres in one body. From the recital of this patent, it appears that Christopher Clark was associated in the first grant, although it was made out to Nicholas Meriwether alone.
In 1731 only three patents were obtained within the present county : one by Charles L,ewis for twelve hundred acres on both sides of the Rivanna, at the mouth of Buck Island Creek ; one by Charles Hudson for five hundred and forty acres on the west side of Carter's Mountain; and one by Major Thomas Carr for two thousand acres "on the back side of the Chesnut Mountains." Several other patents were taken out the same year along the Rivanna within the present limits of Fluvanna County, one of which was by Martin King, whose name is still kept in remembrance in connection with the road which runs from Woodridge to the Union Mills, where was a ford also called by his name.
In 1732 were made eight grants, still confined to the James River, and the western base of the South West Mountain. One of these was made to Thomas Goolsby for twelve hun- dred acres "on the north side of the Fluvanna," that is, the James ; another in the same region to Edward Scott for five hundred and fifty acres "at a place called Totier;" another for four hundred acres to John Key, the head of a family which subsequently owned all the land between the South West Mountain and the river from Edgemont to the bend below the Free Bridge ; and another to Dr. Arthur Hopkins for four hundred acres "on the south side of the Rivanna, running to the mouth of a creek below Red Bank Falls, called Ivcwis' Creek." This last entry included the site of the future town of Milton.
Only four patents were taken out in 1733. None of them
4 HISTORY OF AIvBEMARLE
reached further west than the west bank of the Rivanna under the shadow of the South West Mountain. One was obtained by Charles lyynch for eight hundred acres, which extended up the Rivanna from the mouth of Moore's Creek, and included the plantation of Pen Park.
In 1734 thirteen grants were made. These were mainly located near the bases of the South West Mountain on the Rivanna and Mechunk. One was obtained by Henry Wood, the first clerk of Goochland, and great grandfather of V. W. Southall, for two hundred acres on the south side of the Rivanna at the mouth of Buck Island Creek, increased subse- quently to nearly three thousand in different tracts ; and another by Edwin Hickman, Joseph Smith, Thomas Graves and Jonathan Clark for three thousand two hundred and sev- enty-seven acres on the north side of the Rivanna, running down from Captain MacMurdo's place and embracing the estates of Pantops and lyCgo. Another formed a notable exception to what had hitherto been the rule. It was the first to leave the streams, and strike out towards the middle of 'the county. It was obtained by Joel Terrell and David Lewis for twenty -three hundred acres, and shortly after for seven hundred more, lying on both sides of the Three Notched Road and extending from Lewis's Mountain, which it in- cluded, to a point near the D. S. The Birdwood plantation was comprehended in this tract.
From this time the county was settled with greater rapid- ity. Most of the entries thus far noted were made in large quantities, and by wealthy men for the purpose of specula- tion. Few of those who have been mentioned occupied their lands, at least in the first instance. They made the clearings and entered upon the cultivation which the law required in order to perfect their titles, but it was done either by tenants, or by their own servants, whom they established in "quar- ters." Now, however, a new order of things began. Grants were more frequently obtained in smaller amounts by persons who left the older districts with the design of permanently residing in the new country. Accordingly in 1735 the num- ber of patents rose to twenty-nine. Not that this number
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 5
was constantly maintained ; in some years, on the contrary, it greatly diminished. The population of the colony was yet comparatively sparse. The whole Piedmont region, and the fertile plains of the Valley were simultaneously opened, and held out strong inducements to settlers; and at the same time, inviting sections in the western portions of North and South Carolina were presented in glowing colors before the public eye, and soon drew largely on the multitudes given to change. Still the county steadily filled up. Patents were taken out this year on Green Creek in its southern part, on the south fork of Hardware near the Cove, on the south fork of the Rivanna, on Meadow Creek, on Ivy Creek, and on Priddy's and Buck Mountain Creeks in the north. Among the patentees were John Henryj father of the famous orator, to whom were granted twelve hundred and fifty acres situated on tributaries of the south fork of the Rivanna called Henry, Naked and Fishing Creeks, the same land afterwards owned by the Michies southwest of Earlysville; William Randolph, who was granted twenty-four hundred acres on the north side of the Rivanna and Mountain Falls Creek, including the present Shadwell and Edge Hill; Nicholas Meriwether, who was granted a thousand and twenty acres west of the Rivanna, embracing the plantation known as the Farm; Peter Jefferson, who was granted a thousand acres on the south side of the Rivanna, including Tufton; Aliraham Ivewis, who was granted eight hundred acres on the east side of lycwis's Mountain, then called Piney Mountain, including the present lands of the University ; Thomas Moorman, who was granted six hundred and fifty acres, extending from the branches of Meadow Creek to the south fork of the Rivanna, "including the Indian Grave low grounds ;" Michael Hol- land, who was granted four thousand seven hundred and fifty-three acres on both sides of Ivy Creek, including the prsent Farmington estate; and Charles Hudson, who was granted two thousand acres on Ivy Creek adjoining the Holland tract, and lying southwest of Ivy Depot.
In 1735 Robert Lewis obtained a patent for four thousand and thirty acres on the north fork of Hardware in the North Garden.
6 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
Nineteen patents were taken out in 1737. Michael Woods, his son Archibald, and his son-in-law, William Wallace, secured grants for more than thirteen hundred acres on Lrickinghole, Mechum's River and Beaver Creek, embracing the present M ichum's Depot and Blair Park. The same day Michael Wo is purchased the two thousand acre patent of Charles Hudson on Ivy Creek. These transactions took place at Goochland C. H., or more likely at Williamsburg; and this fact lends probability to the tradition that the Woods settlement occurred at the mouth of Woods's Gap in 1734. Crossing from the Valley into an unbroken forest, as Michael Woods did, it is almost certain that he made a clearing and built a cabin, and thus established his right to the estate the law gave, before he set himself to acquire a knowledge of the surrounding country and its owners, and to make large pur- chases. The axe had commenced to resound atbidst the deep solitudes at the foot of the Blue Ridge, while yet no white settler had gone beyond the Rivanna at the South West Mountain. The same year, 1737, Henry Terrell, of Caroline, obtained a grant of seventeen hundred and fifty acres on the head waters of Mechums, including the present village of Batesville. As a suggestion of special interest, it may be mentioned that in October of that year a William Taylor patented twelve hundred acres lying on both sides of Moore's Creek. It can scarcely be questioned, that this was the tract of land which in process of time passed into the hands of Colonel Richard Randolph, which was sold by him to the county, and on which was laid out in 1762 the new county seat of Charlottesville.
It was not until 1739 that the first patent was located on Moorman's River. David Mills was by that instrument of writing granted twenty eight-hundred and fifty acres on its north fork. Two years later Dennis Doyle obtained the grant of eight hundred acres on the same stream, and from him was derived the name it has borne ever since. The same year, 1741, Thomas Moorman patented seven hundred and fifty acres lower down the main river, and as often as men now speak of it, they perpetuate the memory of his name.
HISTORY OF AI.BEMARt,E 7
All sections of the county had at that time been occupied in some degree, and the work of laying claim to its unappropri- ated lands constantly progressed from year to year. As late however as 1796, Matthew Gambell procured the grant of twenty five thousand seven hundred and ninety-eight acres lying in Albemarle, Orange and Rockingham Counties near Seamond's Gap; and still later in 1798, John Davidson, who subsequently removed to Hardin County, Ky,, took out a patent for eighteen hundred and seventy-seven acres on Buck's Elbow.
Reference has been made to the entry of bodies of land extending over a wide area. It may be further stated, that Major Thomas Carr patented altogether upwards of five thousand acres; George Webb, of Charles City, in 1737 upwards of seven thousand, near a mountain north of Ear- lysville still called by his name; Secretary John Carter in 1738, ten thousand within the present limits of Amherst; John Chiswell in 1739, nearly thirty thousand on Rockfish River, mainly within the present bounds of Nelson; William Robertson in 1739, more than six thousand on Naked and Buck Mountain Creeks; Robert Lewis in 1740, more than six thousand on Ivy Creek; Ambrose Joshua Smith in 1741, more than four thousand on Priddy's Creek ; Samuel Garlick, of Caroline, in 1741 and 1746, thirty-six hundred on Buck Mountain Creek ; Rev. Robert Rose in 1744, more than thirty- three thousand within the present counties of Amherst and Nelson; Rev. William Stith, President of William and Mary, from 1740 to 1755, nearly three thousand, and Dr. Arthur Hopkins in 1748 and 1765, nearly four thousand, on Totier and Ballenger's Creeks; and Allen Howard in 1742, more than two thousand on the lower waters of Rock- fish.
Mr. Jefferson, in a brief sketch of his family, wrote of his father, "He was the third or fourth settler, about the year 1737, of the part of the county in which I live."
The act establishing the county of Albemarle was passed by the Legislature in September, 1744. It ordained its existence to begin from the first of January, 1745; and the
8 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
reason alleged for its formation was the "divers inconven- iences attending the upper inhabitants of Goochland by rea- son of their great distance from the courthouse, and other places usually appointed for public meetings." The dividing lines were directed to run from the point of fork of James River — that is, from the mouth of the Rivanna, where Col- umbia now stands — north thirty degrees east to the Louisa line, and from the same point a direct course to Brook's Mill, and thence the same course continued to the Appomat- tox River. These boundaries embraced the county of Buck- ingham, parts of Appomattox and Campbell, and the counties of Amherst, Nelson and Fluvanna, the Blue Ridge being the western line. That portion of the present county north of a line running past the mouth of Ivy Creek with the course of north sixty -five degrees west, remained in Louisa for sixteen years longer.
In accordance with a custom already begun of commemo- rating the governors of the Commonwealth, the name of Albemarle was given to the new county, from the title of William Anne Keppel, second Earl of Albemarle, at that time Governor General of the colony.
The organization took place the fourth Thursday of Feb- ruary, 1745, doubtless on the plantation of Mrs. Scott, near the present Scottsville, where the next court was directed to be held. The commission of the first magistrates was dated the second of the preceding January. Those present were Joshua Fry, Peter Jefferson, Allen Howard, William Cabell, Joseph Thompson and Thomas Ballon. Howard and Cabell administered the oaths to Fry and Jefferson, and they in turn to the others. The oaths taken were those of a Justice of the Peace, and of a Judge of a Court of Chancery, and the Abjuration and Test oaths were subscribed, — the former renouncing allegiance to the House of Stuart, and the latter afi&rraing the receiving of the sacrament according to the rites of the Church of England. William Randolph was appointed Clerk by a commission from Thomas Nelson, Secretary of the Council, and Joseph Thompson, Sheriff, Joshua Fry, Surveyor, and Edmund Gray, King's Attorney^
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 9
by commissions from William Gooch, the Governor ; and all were sworn in. Patrick Napier and Castleton Harper were made Deputy Sheriffs, and Benjamin Harris, Deputy Clerk, the following May. As appears from the Deed Books, John Fleming was also Deputy Clerk. Thomas Turpin was appointed Assistant Surveyor, and John Hunter, Adrian Angle, John Hilton, John Harris, Robert White and Abra- ham Childress, Constables. The civil offices being filled, the military side of the organization was duly constituted. Joshua Fry received the appointment of Lieutenant of the county, Peter Jefferson of Lieutenant Colonel, and Allen Howard of Major. William Cabell, Joseph Thompson, Charles Lynch, Thomas Ballou, David Lewis, James Daniel, James Nevel, and James Martin were sworn as Captains. Charles Lynch, Edwin Hickman and James Daniel having been named magistrates, were subsequently inducted into office by taking the oaths. Of these officers, Jefferson, Howard, Cabell and Lynch had already been magistrates, and Jefferson had also acted as Sheriff, in Goochland. The William Randolph, who was the first Clerk, was unquestion- ably Colonel William Randolph, of Tuckahoe, who had some years before entered the tract of land known as Edge Hill.
The original attorneys who practiced in the courts of the county, were Edmund Gray, Gideon Marr, William Bat- tersby — whose daughter Jane, the wife of Giles Allegre, was the mother-in-law of the eminent statesman and financier, Albert Gallatin — James Meredith, Clement Read and John Harvie. All except Harvie, and probably Meredith, resided on the south side of James River,
The routine of public business was at once begun and prosecuted with stated regularity. The location of the court- house was a matter of deep interest. It was a conceded point that it should be fixed on James River. Jefferson, Howard, Lynch and Ballou were appointed to view the river and make a report; and as the result, Samuel Scott, son of Edward, agreed with proper security to erect at his own cost a courthouse, prison, stocks and pillory, as good as those
10 HISTORY OF ALBKMARLE
of Goochland, the site to be selected bj' the Court, provided it was placed on his land. The site actually chosen was on the plantation of his brother Daniel, and is still pointed out about a mile west of Scottsville and a quarter of a mile north of the river bank.
During the next three years a number of ordinaries were licensed — Giles Allegre, to keep one on Mechunk ; Daniel Scott and John I^ewis each, one at the courthouse; Wil- liam Battersby, opposite the courthouse; John Anthony, in the Glendower section; James Fenly, Isaac Bates and Gideon Marr, in Buckingham ; William Morrison, in the Rockfish Valley ; Charles Bond, on Briery Creek, a branch of the lower Hardware; Joseph Thompson, in the vicinity of Palmyra; Hugh McGarrough, not far from Afton, and John Hays, probably in the same neighborhood; and Wil- liam Cabell, at his ferry at Warminster. Daniel Scott was licensed to establish a ferry from the courthouse landing to the opposite side of the river, and William Battersby, one from his land to the mouth of Totier Creek on Daniel Scott's land.
The roads received much attention. At that time they were not so much to be worked, as to be opened and cleared; and permission to this end was readily granted under the restriction, that they should not be conducted through any fenced grounds. John Henderson was summoned to show cause why a road should not be cleared through his land from the Three Notched Road to the Hardware River; that is, from near Milton to the vicinity of Mount Air. John Defoe was made Surveyor of the road from Number Twelve to N.umber Eighteen — numbers used to designate the dis- tance, probably from the courthouse to certain trees, as mention is subsequently made of the road from the late Secretary's Ford to the Twelve Mile Tree. David I^ewis was Surveyor of the road over Capt. Charles Lynch's Ford, or Ferry ; this was a road which ran from some point on the Three Notched Road near the University, over the shallows of the Rivanna, a short distance southeast of the Pen Park mansion, and down the west side of the South
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 11
West Mountain. Andrew Wallace was Surveyor of the road from the D. S. to Mechum's River Ford — Archibald and Michael Woods, Jr. to assist in clearing it — and William Woods from Mechum's River to Michael Woods's Gap on the Blue Mountains. Benjamin Wheeler was Surveyor from his place into the "Four Chopped Road" to Woods's Gap. William Harris petitioned for a road from his plantation on Green Creek to the South River — that is, the James — on the lower side of Ballenger's Creek; and Robert Rose, Clerk, petitioned for one from his place on Tye River to Leake's, in the neighborhood of William Harris. The hands of Col. Richard Randolph, Rev. Mr. Stith and William Harris, were ordered to clear a road from the Green Mountain Road near the head of Hog Creek, to the courthouse Road below Mr. Stith's Quarter. Thetithables of the late Secretary at Clear- Mount — which must have been at Blenheim, or in that vicinity — were directed to work on the road from James Taylor's Ford to Martin King's Road, that is, fiom below Carter's Bridge to Woodridge; and his servants living above the mountains, together with the inhabitants on Biscuit Run, were to keep the road from David Lewis's to the late Secre- tary's Mill. This mill was on the north fork of Hardware, a short distance above its junction with the south fork. Fry & Lynch were appointed to apply to the Louisa Court, to continue the road over King's Ford on the Rivanna — at Union Mills — from the county line to Louisa C. H. These are a few instances of the care and energy devoted to this important object.
Howard and Daniel were appointed to list the tithables on the south side, and Lynch, Cabell, Hickman and Ballou, those on the north side, of the Fluvanna River. The number of tithables in 1745 was thirteen hundred and ninety-four, in 1746 fourteen hundred and seventy-nine, and in 1747 seven- teen hundred and twenty -five. They were taxed twenty pounds of tobacco per poll. Taking Mr. Jefferson's calcu- lations in his Notes on Virginia as a basis, this would make the whole population of the county as it then was. white and black, in 1745 about four thousand two hundred and fifty ;
12 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
in 1746 four thousand five hundred ; and in 1747 five thousand two hundred and seventy-five. According to the Census Reports, the progress of the population of the county within its present limits, has been as follows :
1790—12,585. 1830—19,747. 1870—25,800.
1800—16,439. 1840—22,618. 1880—26,625.
1810—18,268. 1850—22,924. 1890—27,554.
1820—32,618. 1860—32,379. 1900—28,473,
The population of Charlottesville was for the first time taken separately from that of the county in 1870. Its num- bers are as follows :
1870—2,838. 1880—2,676. 1890—5,591. 1900—6,449.
Eleanor Crawley was sentenced to receive fifteen lashes on her bare back, well laid on, for stealing linen of the value of eleven pence — a little over fifteen cents — and Pearce Reynolds to receive twenty -one, for stealing a handkerchief of the same value. James, a negro of William Cabell, for stealing twelve pence, was burnt in the hand, and given thirty-nine lashes at the whipping post. In a suit James Fenly gained against Samuel Stephens, and Stephens choosing to be whipped rather than be imprisoned, the Sheriff was ordered to administer twenty-one lashes. The grand jury presented George McDaniel for profane swearing — two oaths within two months — and Abraham Childress for failing to clear the road of which he was surveyor. On motion of David Reese, the testimony of John and Stephen Heard, and of Patrick Nowlin, was recorded, certifying that a piece was bit out of Reese's left ear, in a fray with Nowlin. The testimony of Thomas Nunn and his wife Kate was recorded, showing that they had been imported about fourteen years before, and had never received their dues; and subsequently their two children, Mary and Lucretia, were directed to be bound out by the Church wardens of St. Anne's parish.
The Court was mindful to protect its own dignity. For misbehavior in its presence, Martin King was ordered into custody, and bound over for a year, and Martin King, Jr. and James Fenly were placed in the stocks.
HISTORY OF AI^BEMARLE 13
The scalps of wolves were reported in large numbers. One hundred and forty pounds of tobacco were allowed for the scalp of an old wolf, and seventy -five for that of a youiiR one, that is, one under six months old. When tobacco ceased to be a circulating medium, twelve and six dollars were given as the premiums. These reports continued with more or less regularity in subsequent years down to 1849, the last on record, when Isaac W. Garth was awarded twelve dollars for killing an old wolf. Jonathan Barksdale, Samuel Jameson, William Ramsey and Ryland Rodes, are names which appear most frequently in this connection. In 1835 Ivcwis Snow received a dollar and a half for the scalp of a red fox. The Court agitated the removal of these pre- miums once or twice after 1849, but there is no indication that their offer was ever made.
The foregoing particulars were compiled from the first order book of the County Court, a venerable relic of the past of great interest. Unhappily the records for many years following have been lost. ^ . .
14 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
CHAPTER II.
Albemarle County has somewhat the shape of a lozenge. Its northwestern border follows the crest of the Blue Ridge. Its boundary on the southwest leaves the Ridge a little north of Rockfish Gap, runs a course of south thirty degrees east till it strikes the Rockfish River at the mouth of Green Creek, and then coincides with that river to its junction with the James, The angle at the south instead of coming to a point is irregularly truncated by the James, that river forming its border for about fifteen miles. The southeast- ern boundary starts from the lower end of Scottsville, and has a course of north thirty degrees east to the western side of the town of Gordonsville ; whence that on the northeast runs north seventy-one degrees west till it intersects the top of the Blue Ridge. Its greatest length from north to south is about forty miles, and its greatest breadth about the same distance. It has an area of slightly over seven hundred and fifty square miles.
Its surface is greatly diversified. Parallel with the Blue Ridge, the Southwest Mountain traverses its entire extent at an interval of eighteen or twenty miles. This range is continuous, except where it breaks to afford a passage for the Rivanna, Hardware and Rockfish rivers. Its highest point, Peter's Mountain, occurs where it enters the county on the northeast, having an altitude of perhaps fifteen hundred feet. In its course southward it maintains an elevation of ten or twelve hundred feet until it passes the Hardware, when it gradually declines, and exhibits a prominence but little different from the surface of the surrounding country. This mountain is for the most part a single ridge, and has none of the lateral offshoots so characteristic of the Blue Ridge, un- less for a short distance on the west side of its northern por- tion. Here and there occur low depressions in its crown, which supply a natural and convenient way for roads. North of the Rivanna are three of these depressions — the most north-
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 15
erly, the Turkey Sag, so named from Turkey Run, a branch of Priddy's Creek which rises at its western base, the next, Stony Point Gap, opposite the village ot that name, and the third. Hammock's or Thurman's Gap. Between the Rivanna and the Hardware there is but one, the Monticello Gap, which separates Monticello from the continuation of the range, called Carter's Mountain. South of the Hardware, the range bears the name of Green Mountain.
In the northwest part of the county, and still more in the southwest, irregular and massive formations raise their heads on high, which from their disorderly appearance pass under the name of the Ragged Mountains. Jutting from the Ridge near the western corner is a huge spur, denominated Buck's Elbow. Across Moorman's River to the north is another lofty spur, the Pasture Fence Mountain, called so without doubt because it contained one of the first enclosures for grazing. It is a peculiar feature of this spur, as it is of the whole Blue Ridge, that in summer it is covered with a lux- uriant growth of blue grass ; and in former days, large planters commonly owned farms on these mountains for the special purpose of pasturage. Along the eastern foot of the Pasture Fence lies a rich and beautiful valley, which from one of its first settlers is named Brown's Cove, and which is watered by an affluent of Moorman's River, called in early times its north fork, but now known as Doyle's River. Bordering the Cove on the east is a succession of smaller eminences. Pigeon Top, Fox's Mountain and High Top, while scattered towards the northeast are numerous elevations, some having the appearance of ridges, and some rising as solitary peaks, and bearing the names of Currants, Long, Green, Buck and Piney Mountains.
Just west of where the University now stands is a small range with a higher summit at either end, which was origi- nally called Piney Mountain, The north end has the name of Lewis's Mountain, and the south, Observatory Moun- tain, from its being the site of the astronomical depart- ment of the University. At a short interval southwest of this range, are heaped up for some miles great moun-
16 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
tainous masses, rugged and broken, that may well be termed by way of eminence the Ragged Mountains. These heights are skirted on the east by a range which runs with a good degree of continuity to the extreme southwest of the county, called on the north side of the Hardware, Dudley's Mountain, and on the south. Gay's, Fan's and Appleberry's. Running off from the Ragged Mountains in a westerly direc- tion is a range bearing the names of Martin's and Israel's Mountains, indented by Taylor's, Martin's and Israel's Gaps ; while south and southeast of Israel's Gap, tower aloft some of the loftiest summits in the county, Castle Rock, High Top, Chalk and Heard's Mountains. Some views of these im- mense piles are truly grand and magnificent. In the midst of these gigantic heaps, are found reaches of comparatively level country of prime fertility, one lying along the north fork of the Hardware called the North Garden, another on the south fork called the South Garden, and a third, the Rich Cove, separated by a slight elevation from the South Garden on the south. The section north of James River is varied by gently sloping hills, and that east of the South West Mountain stretches away to the east as an extensive plain, and being covered with forest, is known as the Flat- woods.
Besides the James, the county is cut throughout its entire breadth by two streams, and is washed at its southwest corner by a third, all of considerable size. In the summer the volume of water they discharge is much reduced — so much at times, that during a remarkable drought in 1806, James O. Carr, who was then attending school at Milton was able to stop the entire current of the Rivanna with his hand ; but being mountain streams, that is having their sources near the foot of the Blue Ridge, or its outlying spurs, they become speedily filled by heavy rains and the melting snows of winter, frequently rush down with the fury of a torrent, and overflow all the low grounds along their banks. The most northerly of these water courses is the Rivanna, which has two forks uniting about four miles north of Charlottes- ville, and forming the main stream. The north fork is made
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 17
up near the north line of the county by the union of Swift Run and Ivynch's River, both of which rise in Greene County near the Blue Ridge. It flows southeast and south to its junction with the south fork, augmented by Marsh Run, Herring's Run, Priddy's and Foster's Creeks, flowing into its north side, and by Beaverdam, Jacob's Run, and Flat Branch, coming from the south. The south fork is formed by the confluence of Moorman's and Mechum's Rivers, and being fed on its north side by Buck Moun- tain, Naked, Fishing and Powell's Creeks, and on its south by Ivy Creek, runs eastwardly about five miles to its junc- tion with the north fork. Buck Mountain Creek has a large branch on its west side called Piney Run, Moorman's River rises in the deep ravine between the Blue Ridge and Pasture Fence Mountain, known as Sugar Hollow, and runs a south and then an east course, receiving on its north side Doyle's River, and Rocky and Ward's Creeks. Mechum's River has a greater length, some of its head waters spring- ing beyond the county line in Nelson, and interlocking with branches of the north fork of Rockfish. It has also a more tortuous channel, but its general trend is east of north. It receives on its north side Virgin Spring Branch, Stockton's, Beaver and Spring Creeks, and on its south, Whitesides Creek, Pounding Branch and Broadaxe Creek. The Rivpnna proper flows south, turns to the east in its passage through the South West Mountain for about four miles, and then runs southeast to the county line, when passing through Fluvanna County, it empties into the James at Columbia. In its course through Albemarle, it receives Red Bud, .Moun- tain Falls, Carroll and Limestone Creeks on the nortli, and Meadow, Moore's, Henderson's and Buck Island Creeks on the south.
The Hardware divides into two forks, which join just above its passage through the Southwest Mountain. The north fork also divides not far from Red Hill Station, the south and middle prongs heading near each other on either side of Tom's Mountain, while the north prong rises in the vicinity of Taylor's Gap. Just before reaching the junction
18 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
it receives on its north side Sowell's Branch. The south fork has its source south of Castle Rock, and northwest of Covesville. It makes its way in different directions among the mountains, but its general course is northeast. Its northern tributaries are Jumping Branch and Black Walnut, and its southern, Rapshin and Eppes Creeks. A well known branch of the latter is Beaverdam, which has recently acquired celebrity from the Soapstone Works successfully operated on its banks. After the union of its forks, the Hardware pursues a southeast course, crosses the county line about three miles north of Scottsville, and empties into the James in Fluvanna County. It is enlarged on its north- ern side by Murphy's and Turkey Runs, and on its south- ern by Harris's Creek, formerly known as Little Eppes, and by Coles's Creek, formerly called Hudson's.
The southwestern line of the county is intersected by the head waters of Eynch's, Taylor's, Hickory and Cove Creeks, all branches of Rockfish River. On the east side of Apple- berry's Mountain are Ivy, Green and Hog Creeks, debouch- ing into the same stream. Two creeks of moderate size water the southern part of the county, and fall into the James, one at Warren called Ballenger's, and the other about two miles above Scottsville called Totier. Both are fed by a number of branches. Mechunk Creek takes its rise not far from Gordonsville, flows southwest and southeast, and passing out of the county joins the Rivanna opposite Union Mills. The sources of the South Anna are also in Albe- marle, located not far from that of Mechunk.
The character of the soil is various. The degrees of its fertility are distinguished by different colors, the richest exhibiting a deep red, and the less fertile a gray. The former prevails at the base of the mountains, and along the banks of the streams. Some parts of the county, especially in the mountainous localities, are stony; the more level lands are free from this incumbrance. The prevalent rocks are quartz and what is colloquially known as mountain granite. A single vein of limestone runs through the county, about four miles east of the Southwest Mountain. In a
HISTORV OF ALBEMARLE 19
number of places slate and soapstone occur, both of fine quality. Gold is found in the southwestern corner. The soil and climate of Albemarle are well adapted to all the staple productions of the temperate zone, and are exceedingly- favorable to the cultivation of fruit. The ravines and hol- lows of the mountains which might seem unfitted for the growth of any crop, are found to produce in perfection the Albemarle Pippins, the most highly prized apples in the world.
Most of the names given to the features of Albemarle scenery, belonged to them from the earliest times. In the patents first issued, the mountains and streams were already indicated by names, and they were generally those which they still bear. Who gave them, or why in many cases they were given, must now be reckoned among the things un- known. Sometimes they were suggested by natural circum- stances, and sometimes derived from persons who were owners, or occupiers, of the neighboring lands. The latter have undergone more change than others, because with the lapse of years the names of former residents passed out of remembrance, and those of their successors were applied in their stead. As settlements were made in different parts of the county at the same time, it has happened that names are frequently repeated.
The Southwest Mountain on which the first lands were entered, was originally called the Chestnut Mountain.^. It was also spoken of as the Ivittle Mountain. Particular por- tions had local names, for the most part taken from owners or first settlers, as Peter's, Carter's, Lively's, Sugar Loaf, Monticello. Green Mountain no doubt derived its name from the color of its luxuriant vegetation. The Blue Ridge bore that name from the first planting of the country. The early inhabitants called it also the Blue Ledge, and the Blue Moun - tain. Someiimes it was designated the Great Mountain, in opposition to the Little Mountain, and occasionally the South Mountain, in opposition to the North Mountain on the west side of the Valley. Buck's Klbow and-Pasture Fence — at first Smith's Pasture Fence — Mountain have always been so called.
20 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
Brown's Gap and Brown's Cove were named from the family that largelj'^ settled the land in that region. Turk's Gap was first called Jameson's, and Jarman's bore the name of Woods' — all from families who lived near by. Rockfish Gap has always had that name, acquiring it from the river which rises in part at its base. Pigeon Top was once called Jameson's Mountain, and may have obtained its later name from a roost of that bird. Fox's Mountain took its name from a family that lived on it, and High Top from its lofty peak. Currant's and Webb's Mountains were named from persons who pos- sessed the adjoining lands, and Buck Mountain, and the Creek of the same name, from the abundance of deer that roamed the forests. Piney Mountain was first called Poin- dexter's, from the man who entered the land at its foot. Yel • low Mountain at one time went by the name of Kpperson's. Castle Rock was so denominated from its huge towering form, Chalk Mountain from the light -colored rocks which face its crest, and Heard's, Appleberry's, Fan's, Gay's, Dudley's, from primitive settlers in their vicinity. In early times the Mountains north of Moorman's River, and south of Me- chum's, were called Ragged, from their disordered appear- ance, and not from the garments of their inhabitants, as has sometimes been suggested.
The Hardware River has always borne that name. Rivanna was in use from the first, according to the fashion then in vogue, of honoring Queen Anne with the names of rivers recently discovered. In the earliest patents and deeds it was more frequently called the north fork of the James, as the James above the Rivanna passed under the name of the South Fork, or more euphuistically, the Fluvanna. In some in- stances the Rivanna was simply termed the North River, and the Fluvanna the South. The crossing of the Rivanna at the Free Bridge was known at the beginning of the century as Moore's Ford, or I^ewis' Ferry, according to the stage of water, and its north fork was sometimes called, down to a quite recent date, the Little River. Red Bud was first named Key's Mill Creek, or Swamp. In early days, swamp seemed to be interchangeable with creek, no doubt from the rubbish
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 21
of logs and leaves which forages had obstructed the channels of the smaller streams. Priddy's, Buck Mountain and Rocky Creeks, and Jacob's and Piney Runs, had those designations from the beginning. The names of Meadow and Ivy Creeks obtained from the earliest times. Moorman's River was named from Thomas Moorman, one of the first patentees on its banks, and Mechum's, from a George Mechum, who was an owner of land near its head. The north fork of Mechum's was called Stockton's Creek, and its south fork, now re- garded as the main stream, Stockton's Mill Creek, from a numerous family occupying their margins. The middle fork was always termed Virgin Spring Branch. Union Run was first named Mountain Falls Creek; afterwards, from being a favorite feeding place of the wagoners who brought their produce to Milton, it acquired the name of Camping Branch. Carroll's Creek was the original title of that stream. lyimestone was first called Plum Tree Branch, then Scales Creek, and finally its present name, from wash- ing the only vein of limestone in the county. Buck Island Creek was so designated from the beginning. It is a mis- take to write it Buckeyeland, as if derived from the deer eyed tree. The name was taken from an island in the Rivanna opposite its mouth, and as in the case of so many objects of natural scenery, was suggested by the great numbers of deer found everywhere in the country. There were two otlicr tributaries of the Rivanna below Milton in early times, though their names are never heard at present, Henderson's and Miller's Branches. Moore's Creek has been so called from the first. The same is true of Biscuit Run ; but the names of its branches, Plum Orchard on the east, and Cow Branch on the west, have slipped from the memory of men. A small prong of Moore's above Biscuit Run once had the name of Edge's Creek; it is forgotten now.
There were three Beaverdams in the county, one running into" Mechunk, another into Lynch's River, and the third into Eppes Creek. Besides Ivy Creek that passes the depot of that name, there is another which empties into Rockfish. An afiluent of Priddy's Creek, and one of Ballenger's, were
22 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
both called Wolf Trap. Wolf Pit was a branch of Beaver Creek, and a cavity on the west side of South West Mountain had the same name. Piney Mountain was the designation, not only of the present mountain of that name, but also of Lewis's Mountain near the University and of an eminence near Afton. A branch of the lower Rockfish was called Buck Island, besides the stream so named that flows into the Rivanna. A Turkej' Run empties into Priddy's Creek, and another of the name enters the Hardware. There were three Round Top Mountains, one in the Buck Mountain region, another not far from Batesville, and another near the Uni- versity.
Whitehall was an election precinct under the successive names of Glenn's Store, William Maupin's Store, Maupin's Tavern, Miller's Tavern, Shumate's Tavern, till at length the present name was established about 1835. For a long time Batesville went by the name of Oliver's Store. Mechum's Depot was anciently known as Jarman's Mill, and afterwards as Walker's Mill. Ivy Depot was formerly called Woodville. The name of Glendower at first was Scott's Mill, then Dyer's, and then Dawson's. Woodridge was for many years denom- inated McGehee's Old Field. Besides Stony Point on the Barboursville Road, there was a Stony. Point not tar from Scottsville. Free Union formerly went by the name of Nixville, and is still so spoken of by the older citizens. Petersburg is the appellation of a hamlet on Priddy's Creek between the Southern Railroad and the Barboursville Road. Cartersburg is a straggling collection of houses on the hill south of Rio Bridge. Brownton and Lemon Hill stand for places not far from Glendower.
As already intimated, the former denizens of the forest were frequently alluded to in the names by which objects were distinguished. When the county was first occupied, game of every kind abounded. Traces of the buffalo still remained. A trail is said to have run up Rockfish River to the Gap of that name. It is also reported that the old Richard Woods Road closely followed a buffalo trail. A tract of land belonging to the Webb entry, sold in 1769 to Isaac
HISTORY OF ALBKMARLE 23
Davis, and lying on the north fork of the Rivanna, is de- scribed as adjoining Buffalo Meadow. A branch of Buck Mountain Creek was called Klk Run. Deer were exceedingly plentiful. A tradition, which descended from one of the first settlers near the Blue Ridge, states, that by stepping from his door almost any morning, he was able to shoot a deer. From this circumstance it arose that the word Ihick so frequently forms part of the names of the county. Lick Run was a branch of Beaverdam in its northern part. Bears were found, not only as they still are in the deep ravines of the Blue Ridge, but also in every neighborhood. Near the Rich Cove were Bear Creek, and Red Bear Hollow. Benja- min Brown devised to his son Bezaleel the Bear cornfield. In a deed of 1789, conveying land north of Stony Point, one of the lines passed by "the Bear Spring on the road." As late as 1823, it was stated, that Henry Bruce with two other men, killed on the Blue Ridge twelve fine fat bears in fifteen days. As previously mentioned, an exterminating war was waged from the beginning against wolves. A prong of Green Creek bore the name of Black Fox Branch. Beaver and Beaverdam Creeks were connected with every leading stream of the county. In the first times flocks of turkeys thronged the woods, and every fall and spring wild ducks and geese darkened the rivers. Tradition refers to more than one pigeon roost, where great limbs of trees were broken down by the countless numbers of that bird. Before the construc- tion of dams, fish of the best kinds, shad and herring, ascended the water courses. Dr. William Cabell derived a considerable revenue from his fisheries on James River, and fine shad, taken from the Rivanna, were often seen on the tables of the early inhabitants.
There is no evidence that Indians were resident in the county at the first approach of the white man, though they still passed through on their journeys from one part of the country to another. But memorials of their former occupa- tion were not wanting. Mr. Jefferson mentions having often seen them in his boyhood, and refers in his Notes to a large band visiting the mound containing the remains of their an-
24 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
cestors on the Rivanna low grounds, and there expressing their customary signs of grief. In a description of land on Bremo Creek, in a deed of 1751, is noted a line that ran "up to the head of the branch that the Indian shot John Lawson at." The head stream of Buck Island that flows past Over- ton, was variously called Indian Creek, Indian Camp Creek, and Camping Branch, and the plantation at its source, once owned by William Short, and sold by him to David Higgin- botham, bore the name of Indian Camp. Flint arrowheads, often of superior workmanship, are found in large numbers in many sections of the county.
The first division of the county, besides its separation into the two parishes of Fredericksv'lle and St. Anne's, was that made by the bounds of the militia companies. Each of the two regiments embodied in it contained eight companies, and thus there were sixteen of these divisions. The persons selected to perform the duty of Processioning, whilst that method of determining the boundaries of lands was prac- tised, were chosen foi these divisions, usually four persons for each. They were referred to by Mr. Jefferson as forming suitable districts for stationing common schools, and appear in the records until quite a late period in connection with the appointment of patrolling parties.
For a long time the county seat was the exclusive locality for holding political elections. For electing Overseers of the Poor, there existed in the early part of the century four dis- tricts : for the northeast, the voting place was Trice's Tav- ern below Turkey Sag, and afterwards Stony Point; for the northwest, Fretwell's Store, or Free Union; for the south- west, Everett's Tavern, or the Cross Roads; and for the southeast. Dyer's Store. It was not until the second quarter of the century was considerably advanced that the number of election precincts was increased, and the convenience of the people thus consulted. As late as 1820, Charlottesville was the only post office for the county; subsequent to that date, mail facilities began rapidly to multiply.
In 1846, in accordance with an act of the Legislature, the county was divided into twenty -one School districts. A
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 25
description of their limits is recorded in the Order Book for that year, page 312. In Deed Book No. Fifty, occurs the record of the boundaries of ten districts for election purposes, which were constituted in pursuance of an act of the Lcjjis- lature passed in 1852.
The last division was effected by an act of the Legislature, under the requirement of the new Constitution, adopted in July, 1869. By this law the county was laid off into five Townships, subsequently termed Districts. These were Rivanna, Whitehall, Samuel Miller, Scottsville and Charlottesville. In 1875 another was added, called Ivy, which was enlarged on its northern border in 1889.
Allusion has been made to the great misfortune sustained in the loss of the early records. The gap thus occasioned reaches from 1748 to 1783, a period of thirty-five years, and one intensely interesting in the history of the country at large. The loss was caused by the wanton ravages of the British troops near the close of the Revolutionary War. Many refer- ences to this event are met with in the subsequent proceedings of the County Court. In 1794 it recommended John Key, George Divers, Thomas Garth, Thomas W. Lewis, Garland Carr, Thomas Bell, Robert Jonett, W. W. Hening, and Cornelius Schenk as "Commissioners to reinstate such rec- ords as had been lost or destroyed." These persons or others were certainly appointed for this purpose, as the Court in one place ordered the transactions of the Commissioners "for reinstating the records destroyed by the enemy," to be recorded. A copy of Gideon Carr's will was proved before them, and directed to be placed on record. On a deed from Thomas Goolsby to Samuel Shelton dated July 1745, the following memorandum was inscribed: "February Court, 1788. This Indenture was produced to tlie Court, and it appearing from a certificate on the same, that it had been formerly recorded in this Court, the record whereof was de- stroyed by the British in the year 1781, on motion of Samuel Sheiton it was ordered by the Court that it be recorded again, in pursuance of an act of Assembly for that purpose." The act here referred to may be found in Hening XII, 497. It
26 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
is hard to conceive any conduct in an army more outrageous, more opposed to the true spirit of civilization, and withal more useless in a military point of view, than the destruction of public archives.
Other interruptions of the series however have happened since that time. The order books of the Court are missing from 1785 to 1791. Those for the years 1805 and 1827 are also wanting. It is difficult to account for these losses, except from want of due care in the removal of the books at different times from one office to another.
During the long interval posterior to 1748, two events transpired on which it is desirable to have as much light as possible, the change of location of the Court House, and the Revolutionary War. Materials fortunately exist to furnish some account of both.
The first occurrence was rendered necessary by the partition of the county in 1761. The territory on the south side of James River was cut off to form the county of Bucking- ham. That part tvhich lay north of the James, and west of the Rockfish from its mouth up to the mouth of Green Creek, and thence west of a line running directly to the house of Thomas Bell, and continuing thence to the Blue Ridge, was constituted the county of Amherst. At the same time there was added to Albemarle that part of I^ouisa lying west of a line, beginning at the boundary between Albemarle and lyouisa on the ridge between Mechunk and Beaverdam Swamp, and running along said ridge till inter- sected by an east course from the widow Cobb's plantation, and thence a direct course to the Orange line opposite the plantation of Ambrose Coleman. When this arrangement took place, it left the Court House on the extreme southern border, and rendered attendance thereat unnecessarily incon- venient to the people residing in the northern sections of the county.
What proceedings transpired to determine the site of the new Court House, whether it was fixed by the judgment of the County Court, or settled by a popular vote, there remains no means of knowing. Certain it is no more suitable place
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 2 7
than the one selected could have been chosen. It occupies almost the exact centre of the county, it lies in the midst of a fertile country, and it is beautiful for situation. Lofty ideas were evidently entertained in relation to its establishment. A thousand acres were purchased from Colonel Richard Ran- dolph, of Henrico, extending north and south from near /Cochran's Pond to the south side of Moore's Creek, and east and west from the Chesapeake and Ohio Depot to Preston Heights. The title to this property was vested in Dr. Thomas Walker as Trustee, and he was empowered to sell and convey it to purchasers. The town was planned at the eastern edge of this tract, and consisted of four tiers of squares, each tier running east and west, and containing seven squares, and the four tiers extending from Jefferson Street on the north to South Street on the south. The public square for the courthouse was exterior to the limits of the town. The act of Assembly establishing the town was passed in November 1762. It is therein recited that fifty acres of land contiguous to the courthouse had already been laid off into lots and streets, and as it would be of great advan- tage to the inhabitants of the county if established a town for the reception of traders, it was so established, to be called and known by the name of Charlottesville. Dictated by the spirit of loyalty then prevalent, the name was given in honor of Princess Charlotte of Mecklenburg Strelitz, who had recently become Queen of England as the wife of King George III.
There being two half-acre lots in each square, the original town contained fifty-six lots. They were not disposed of with great rapidity. At the first sale in September 1763, about a year after the survey of the town, fourteen lots were sold to seven purchasers. Ten more were sold at intervals during Ae next year. Strange to say, the most of those alienated at first were remote from the courthouse, and lay on Main, Water and South Streets, although it is within the memory of some living since the Square ceased to be the business centre of the town. The next sale took place in October 1765, when twenty-three lots were disposed of, four-
28 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
teen being purchased at once by Beniamin Brown and David Ross. By this time it may be supposed the courthouse was built, and the prospects of the new settlement being some- what assured, the spirit of speculation began to operate. In the deed to John Moore of Lot No. Three in 17 65, it was stated that the Court of the County was recently held thereon.
The residue of the public land was divided into fifteen parts, designated as outlots. They ranged in size from thirty-three to one hundred and fifty acres. The smallest of them lying north of the town and immediately on the public square, was sold to John Moore in April 1764. On this lot was a spring in the ravine behind Miss Ross' resi- dence, which had already acquired the name of the Prison Spring. The latter part of the same year two others adjoin- ing the town on the south, and containing seventy-three acres, were purchased by Richard Woods. In October 1765, eight more lying to the north, south and west, and aggre- gating upwards of six hundred acres, were bought by John Moore, Joel Terrell, and Richard and Samuel Woods. The last sale of outlots mentioned occurred in 1791, when the most northerly of them was sold to Dr. George Gilmer. The whole sum realized by the county from the sale of town lots and outlots averaged a pound an acre, amounting to thirty-three hundred and thirty-three dollars.
The improvements made in the town before the Revolu- tion seem to have been few and scattered. One of the earliest was the residence of Joel Terrell, which was built on the corner of Market and Fifth Streets, where the City Hall now stands. Thomas West, a saddler by trade, lived on Main Street, on the square now occupied by the L,eter- mans' Store. Samuel Taliaferro resided on the square to the east, on which afterwards stood the dwelling and store of Colonel Thomas Bell, occupied later by the family of Jesse Scott, and at present the seat of the Post Office. The first home of Dr. George Gilmer was on the south side of Main Street, near the present location of T. T. Norman's Store. John Day, a blacksmith, lived on the southeast corner of
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 29
Water and First Streets. Tucker Woodson, Deputy Clerk of the County, who married Elizabeth, daughter of John Moore, had his residence north of town, near the road to Cochran's Mill. A short time before the outbreak of the war, John Jouett built his public house, the Swan Tavern, on the east of the public square, where the house of the late Samuel L,eitch now stands. The square on which is now erected the Perley Building, was known in those days as "the Grass Lot," and on a part of it was a house in which a Richard Scott lived, and which when sold during the war was reserved to him for his life. In a house on L,ot Twenty- one, now marked by Huyett's Corner, a Mary Murphy lived the latter part of the war. Being afterwards married to Joseph Neilson, they sold it in 1784, and the same year it came into the possession of Robert Draffen, a former mer- chant of Charlottesville.
As the war of the Revolution drew near, the people of Albemarle were deeply aroused. Their opposition to the obnoxious measures of the British government was prompt and strong. Upon the first mutterings of the storm, an independent company of volunteers was formed, and by spirited resolves they devoted themselves to the public wel- fare. When the election of ofl&cers was entered upon, the choice fell upon Charles I^ewis, of North Garden, as Captain, Dr. George Gilmer and John Marks, as lyieutenants. John Harvie, as Ensign, William Simms, William Wood, William T. Lewis, and John Martin, as Sergeants, and Frederick W. Wills, Thomas Martin, Jr., Patrick Napier and David Allen, as Corporals. As soon as the news was received of the removal of the powder by Lord Dunmore, without waiting for a call, eighteen men at once marched to Williamsburg. How long they remained underarms, does not appear. They returned home shortly after, in the midst of the prevailing uncertainty. But their eagerness to sustain "the cause of America," was unabated. In fact so enthusiastic was their warmth, that they were not disposed to listen to counsels which cooler minds deemed prudent. On receiving a mes- sage from Captain Hugh Mercer, to the effect that the Speaker
30 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
and others thought the companies assembled should be dis- missed, thej' were at a loss how to act. It was determined however that the matter should be submitted to the decision of the company. They voted to march again, and on July 11th, 1775, twenty-seven men under L/ieutenant George Gil- mer proceeded a second time to Williamsburg.
The Convention which met on July 17th of that year, formed sixteen districts in the colony, in which troops should be raised for its defence. In one of these Albemarle was associated with Buckingham, Amherst and East Augusta. The Committee of the district convened on September 8th, 1775, at the house of James Woods in Amherst. There were present from Albemarle, Charles Lewis and George Gilmer^ from Amherst, William Cabell and John and Hugh Rose, from Buckingham, John Nicholas, Charles Patterson and John Cabell, and from Augusta, Sampson Matthews, Alex- ander McClanahan and Samuel McDowell. Thomas Jefferson was the other delegate from Albemarle, but was absent at the Continental Congress, of which he had been appointed a member the previous June. At this meeting it was resolved, that two companies of minutemen should be enlisted in each of the counties of Albemarle, Amherst and Buckingham, and four in that of Augusta, and that these ten companies should constitute a battalion under George Matthews, of Augusta, and afterwards Governor of Georgia, as Colonel, Charles Lewis, of Albemarle, as Lieutenant Colonel, Daniel Gaines, of Amherst, as Major, and Thomas Patterson, of Buckingham, as Commissary. This battalion was raised and went into camp November 11th, 1775, three miles from Rockfish Gap, and continued in training till December 6th. Inquiry fails to find any local tradition of the place of this camp, but it is said that grounds at that distance from the Gap, and admir- ably fit for military exercises, may be found on the main road between Hebron and Rodes' Churches. Charles Lewis ap- pears as Colonel of a battalion the next year, and was ordered by the Convention in May to North Carolina. He was after- wards Colonel of the Fourteenth Virginia Regiment, and at the time of his death in 1779, Commander of the post at Charlottesville.
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 31
Soldiers from Albemarle fought on all the important bat- tle fields of the war, Long Bridge, Trenton, Stony Point, Brandywine, Germantown, Saratoga, Monmouth, Savannah, Charleston, Camden, King's Mountain, Cowpeus, Guiltord, Eutaw and Yorktown.
The most striking event connecting the county with the war, was the location within its bounds of the camp for the Convention Troops, as they were called; that is, the pris- oners captured in October 1777, at Burgoyne's surrender. These troops were first sent to Boston, whence they were to be allowed to return to Europe on their parole not to serve again till exchanged ; but Congress on account of its unsat- isfactory relations with the British authorities, refused to ratify the terms of the Convention, and the next year directed the prisoners to be removed to Charlottesville. Being led by way of Lancaster, Pennsylvania, and Frederick, Maryland, they reached their new quarters about the first of the year 1779, and remained until October 1780. The camp was stationed on the northern bank of Ivy Creek, on what is now the farm of the late George Carr, and the place has ever since borne the name of The Barracks. There remain some inter- esting reminiscences of this episode of the war, derived from contemporary documents.
The prisoners arrived in the winter, when a spell of ex- tremely bitter weather was prevailing. Such was tlie lack of preparation for their reception, and such their sufferings, that numerous remonstrances were presented by their officers to the Governor of the State, as well as to Congress. De- mands were made for their immediate removal. In this state of affairs Mr. Jefferson wrote at much length to Patrick Henry, the Governor at that time, stating the circumstances, and urging that there was no necessity for a change. The letter, dated March 27th, 1779, is valuable for the interesting facts it preserves. In the course of it he says,
"There could not have been a more unlucky concurrence of circumstances than when these troops first came. The barracks were unfinished for want of laborers, the spell of weather, the worst ever known within the memory of man, no
32 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
Stores of bread laid in, the roads by the weather and the number of wagons soon rendered impassable ; and not only the troops themselves were greatly disappointed, but the people of the neighborhood were alarmed at the consequences which a total failure of provisions might produce.
"The barracks occupy the top and brow of a very high hill ; you have been untruly told they were in a bottom. They are free from fog, have four springs which seem to be plentiful, one within twenty yards of the picket, and another within two hundred and fifty; and they propose to sink wells within the picket. Of four thousand people it should be expected according to the ordinary calculations, that one should die every day. Yet in the space of more than three months there have been but four deaths, two infants under three weeks old, and two others by apoplexy. The officers tell me the troops were never so healthy since they were embodied.
"The mills on James River above the falls, open to canoe navigation, are very many. Some of these are of great value as manufacturers. The barracks are surrounded by mills. There are five or six round about Charlottesville. Any two or three of the whole might in the course of the winter manufacture flour sufficient for the year.
"The officers after considerable hardship have procured quarters comfortable and satisfactory to them. In order to do this, they were obliged in many instances to hire houses for a year certain, and at such exorbitant rents as were sufl5- cient to tempt independent owners to go out of them, and shift as they could. These houses in most cases were much out of repair. They have repaired them at considerable expense. One of the general ofiicers has taken a place for two years, advanced the rent for the whole time, and been obliged moreover to erect additional buildings for the accom- modation of part of his family, for which there was not room in the house rented. Independent of the brick work, for the carpentry of these additional buildings I know he is to pay Bltcen hundred dollars. The same gentleman to my knowl- edge has paid to one person thirty-six hundred and seventy
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLK 33
dollars, for different articles to fix himself commodiously. They have generally laid in their stocks of grain and other provisions. They have purchased cows, sheep, &c., set in to farming, prepared their gardens, and have a prospect of quiet and comfort before them.
"To turn to the soldiers. The environs of the barracks are delightful, the ground cleared, laid off in hundreds of gardens, each enclosed in its separate paling; these are well prepared, and exhibiting a fine appearance. General Riede- sel alone laid out upwards of two hundred pounds in garden seeds for the German troops only. Judge what an extent of ground these seeds would cover. There is little doubt that their own gardens will furnish them a great abundance of vegetables through the year. Their poultry, pigeons and other preparations of that kind present to the mind the idea of a company of farmers, rather than a camp of soldiers. In addition to the barracks built for them by the public, and now very comfortable, they have built great numbers for themselves in such messes as fancied each other; and the whole corps, both officers and men, seem now happy and satisfied with their situation."-
Besides this narrative of Mr. Jefferson, there is extant an account of the Barracks, and of the condition of affairs in the surrounding country, in the published letters of Major Thomas Anbury, a British officer, and one of the prisoners. These letters were despatched from time to time to his friends in England, and exhibit a detail of his experiences and ob- servations, from Burgoyne's march from Canada till near the close of the war. They were written in a free, dashing style, and while his descriptions are sprightly and entertaining, they present things in such aspects and colors as would natu- rally be expected from^ a British point of view. Most of those written from Albemarle were dated at Jones's Plantation, and the circumstances to which he refers make it evident that the place was that of Orlando Jones, situated north of Glendower, and now bearing the name of Refuge. Respect- ing matters concerning the prisoners, he writes,
"On our arrival at Charlottesville, no pen can describe the —3
34 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
scene of misery and confusion that ensued; the officers of the first and second brigades were in the town, and our ar- rival added to their distress. This famous place we had heard so much of, consisted only of a courthouse, one tavern, and about a dozen houses, all of which were crowded with officers; those of our brigade were therefore obliged to ride about the country, and entreat the inhabitants to take us in. As to the men, their situation was truly horrible, after the hard shifts they had experienced in their march from the Potomac. They were, instead of comfortable barracks, con- ducted into a wood, where a few log huts were just begun to be built, the most part not covered over, and all of them full of snow. These they were obliged to clear out and cover over, to secure themselves from the inclemency of the weather as soon as they could, and in the course of two or three days rendered a habitable, but by no means a comfortable, retirement. What added greatly to the distress of the men was the want of provisions, as none had as yet arrived for the troops, and for six days they subsisted on the meal of Indian corn made into cakes. The person who had the management of every- thing, informed us that we were not expected till spring.
"Never was a country so destitute of every comfort. Pro- visions were not to be purchased for ten days ; the ofiicers subsisted upon fat pork and Indian corn made into cakes, not a drop of spirit of any kind; what little there had been, was already consumed by the first and second brigades. Many officers to comfort themselves put red pepper into water to drink by way of cordial. Upon a representation of our situation Ijy Brigadier General Hamilton to Colonel Bland, who commanded the American troops, he promised to make the situation of the men as comfortable as possible; and with all expedition. The officers upon signing a parole might go to Richmond and other adjacent towns, to procure themselves quarters; accordingly a parole was signed, which allowed a circuit of near a hundred miles. And after they had drawn lots, as three were to remain in the barracks with the men, or at Charlottesville, the principal part of them set off for Richmond, while many are at plantations twenty or thirty
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 35
miles from the barracks. On the arrival of the troops at Charlottesville, the officers what with vexation and to keep out the cold, drank rather freely of an abominable liquor called peach brandy, which if drunk to excess, the fumes raise an absolute delirium, and in their cups several were guilty of deeds that would admit of no apology. The inhab- itants must have thought us mad, for in the course of three or four days there were no less than six or seven duels fought.
"I am quartered with Major Master and four other officers of our regiment at this plantation, about twenty miles from the barracks. The owner has given up his house and gone to reside at his overseer's, and for the use of his house we pay him two guineas a week. It is situated upon an emi- nence, commanding a prospect of near thirty miles around it, and the face of the country appears an immense forest, interspersed with various plantations four or five miles dis- tant from each other. Informing the Commissary of pro- visions where we were quartered, he gave us an order on a Colonel Coles, who resides about four miles distant, to supply us, he being appointed to collect for the use of Congress in this district; who upon application sent us about a month's provision of flour and salt pork for ourselves and servants. Cattle, horses, sheep and hogs followed the cart, to lick the barrels containing the salt meat.
"The house where General Phillips resides is called Blen- heim. It was erected shortly after that memorable battle by a Mr. Carter, Secretary of the Colony, and was his favor- ite seat of residence. It stands on a lofty eminence, com- manding a verj' extensive prospect. Colonel Carter, its pres- ent proprietor, possesses a most affluent fortune, and has a variety of seats surpassing Blenheim, which he suffers to go to ruin. When General Phillips took it, it was crowded with negroes, sent to clear a spot of ground a few miles off. The extent of his land is immense, and he has fifteen hundred negroes on his different plantations.
"The Congress must be acquitted of the bad treatment of the prisoners; they were misguided and duped by a Colonel
36 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
Harvie, a member from this province. When Virg:inia was fixed on as a depot for the prisoners, Colonel Harvie pro- posed to Congress to remove the Convention army to a tract of land belonging to him, about six miles from Charlottes- ville, about four from the Blue Mountains, and near two hundred from the sea coast; and if Congress approved, he would engage to build barracks and lay in provisions by the ensuing spring. The resolution was passed the latter end of June. Colonel Harvie immediately resorted to Virginia, and set all his negroes, and a number of the inhabitants, to build the barracks and collect provisions ; and after having planned everything, he left its completion to the management of his brother, and returned to Congress. His brother not possess- ing so much activity, and not being perhaps so much in- terested in the business, did not pay proper attention to it; and this was the cause why the barracks were not finished, and affairs were in such confusion on our arrival. Colonel Harvie supposed all would be ready by Christmas.
"Colonel Bland, who commands the American troops, was formerly a physician at a place called Petersburg on the James River, but at the commencement of the war, as being in some way related to Bland, who wrote a military treatise, he felt a martial spirit arise within him, quitted the Ksculapian art, and at his own expen.se raised a regiment of light horse. As to those troops of his regiment with Washington's army, I cannot say anything; but the two the Colonel has with him here for the purposes of express and attendance, are the most curious figures you ever saw ; some like Prince Pretty- man with one boot, others without any ; some hoseless, with their feet peeping out of their shoes, others with breeches that put decency to the blush; some in short jackets, and some in long coats, but all have fine dragoon caps, and long swords slung around tluin ; sotne with holsters, some with- out, but, gramt-rcy, pistols, they haven't a brace and a half among them; but they are tolerably well mounted, and that is the only thing you can advance in their favor. The Colonel is so fond of his dragoons, that he reviews and maneuvers them every morning, and when he rides out, has
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 37
two with drawn swords before, and two behind. It is really laughable to see him thus attended by his ragged regiment, which looks, to borrow Shakespeare's idea, as if the gibbets had been robbed to make it up ; then the Colonel himself, notwithstanding his martial spirit, has all the grave deport- ment as u he were going to a consultation. He greatly amused some of us calling to see him not long since. He had just mounted his horse to ride out, and seeing us ap- proach, and wishing to air his French, he called out very pompously to his orderly, ' Donne z moi — donnez mot — eh — mon scabbard!' "
In May 1779, he wrote,
"A few days ago Madame Riedesel, [who with her hus- band. Baron Riedesel, was living at Colle, near Simeon] with two of her children, had a narrow escape. As she was going to the barracks in her post chaise, when the carriage had passed a wooden bridge — which are of themselves very terrific, being only so many rough logs laid across beams, without any safeguard on either side — an old rotten pine fell directly between the horses and the chaise, but providentially did no other damage than crushing the two fore wheels to pieces, and laming one of the horses.
"I am filled with sorrow at being obliged to relate the death of W — , a relative of Sir Watkin Williams Wynne. He had been drinking peach brandy till he became insane; and riding from Charlottesville to the barracks, he contrived to escape his companions, and next morning was found dead in a by -place five miles off, being tracked by the foot -prints of his horse in the snow."
From the Barracks, to which he had removed in the early part of 1780, he wrote later,
"The log huts of the men are becoming dangerous from the ravages of insects, that bear the appellation of Sawyers, and are infested with rats of enormous size. The prisoners are deserting in great numbers, especially the Germans, and duels have become very frequent among the German officers. ' '
On November 20th, 1780, he wrote from Winchester,
"About six weeks ago we marched from Charlottesville
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38 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLK
barracks, Congress being apprehensive that Cornwallis in overrunning the Carolinas might by forced marches retake the prisoners. The oflP-cers murmured greatly at the step, having been given to understand that they were to remain till exchanged. Many had laid out considerable sums to ren- der their huts comfortable, particularly by replacing the wood chimneys with stone, and to promote association, they had erected a coffee house, a theatre, a cold bath, &c. My miserable log hut, not more than sixteen feet square, cost between thirty and forty guineas in erecting. The woods had been cleared away for the space of six miles in circumference around the barracks. It had become a little town, and there being more society, most of the officers had resorted thither. After we quitted the barracks, the inhabitants were near a week in destroying the cats that were left behind; impelled by hunger, they had gone into the woods, and there was rea- son to suppose they would become extremely wild and fero- cious, and would be a great annoyance to their poultry. We crossed the Pignut Ridge, or more properly the Blue Moun- tains, at Woods's Gap, and though considerably loftier than those we crossed in Connecticut, we did not meet with so many difficulties ; in short, you scarcely perceive till you are upon the summit that you are gaining an eminence, much less one that is of such a prodigious height, owing to the judicious manner that the inhabitants have made the road, which by its winding renders the ascent extremely easy. After traveling near a mile through a thick wood before you gain the summit of these mountains, when you reach the top, you are suddenly surprised with an unbounded prospect that strikes you with amazement. At the foot of the mountain runs a beautiful river; beyond it is a very extensive plain, interspersed with a variety of objects to render the scene still more delightful; and about fifty miles distant are the lofty Alleghany Mountains, whose tops are buried in the clouds." As Anbury's work is out of print, it will no doubt prove acceptable to give a few extracts, in which are presented the condition of the country, and the state of society, as viewed l>y a stranger occupying his peculiar circumstances.
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 39
"The plantations are scattered here and there over the land, which is thickly covered with timber. On these there is^a dwelling house in the centre, with kitchen, smoke house, and other outhouses detached, and from the various build- ings each plantation has the appearance of a small village. At some little distance from the houses are peach and apple orchards, and scattered over the plantations are the negroes' huts, and tobacco barns, which are large and built of wood for the cure of that article. The houses are most of them built of wood, the roof being covered with shingles, and not always lathed and plastered within; only those of the bet- ter sort are finished in that manner, and painted on the out- side; the chimneys are often of brick, but the generality of them are wood, coated on the inside with clay; the windows of the better sort are glazed, the rest have only wooden shut- ters.
"All taverns and public houses in Virginia are called Ordinaries, and 'faith, not improperly in general. They consist of a little house placed in a solitary situation in the middle of the woods, and the usual method of describing the roads is. From such an ordinary to such a one, so many miles. The entertainment you meet with is very poor indeed ; you are seldom able to procure any other fare than eggs and bacon with Indian hoe cake, and at many of them not even that. The only liquors are peach brandy and whiskey. They are not remiss however in making pretty exorbitant charges. Before the war, I was told, one might stop at any plantation, meet with the most courteous treatment, and be supplied with everything gratuitously. Gentlemen hearing of a stranger at an ordinary, would at once send a negro with an invitation to his house.
"Most of the planters consign the care of their plantations and negroes to an overseer; even the man whose bouse we rent has his overseer, though he could with ease superintend it himself; but if they possess a few negroes, they think it beneath their dignity; added to which, they are so abomi- nably lazy. I'll give you a sketch of this man's general way of living. He rises about eight o'clock, drinks what he
40 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
calls a julep, which is a large glass of rum sweetened with sugar, then walks, or more generally rides, round his planta- tion, views his stock, inspects his crops, and returns about ten o'clock to breakfast on cold meat or ham, fried hominy, toast and cider ; tea and coffee are seldom tasted but by the women. He then saunters about the house, sometimes amusing himself with the little negroes who are playing round the door, or else scraping on a fiddle. About twelve or one he drinks a toddy to create him an appetite for dinner, which he sits down to at two o'clock. After he has dined he generally lies down on the bed, rises about five, then perhaps sips some tea with his wife, but commonly drinks toddy till bed time; during all this time he is neither drunk nor sober, but in a state of stupefaction. This is his usual mode of living which he seldom varies; and he only quits his plan- tation to attend the Court House on court days, or some horse race or cock fight, at which times he gets so egregi- ously drunk, that his wife sends a couple of negroes to con- duct him safe home.
"Thus the whole management of the plantation is left to the overseer, who as an encouragement to make the most of the crops, gets a certain portion as his wages ; but having no interest in the negroes any further than their labor, he drives and whips them about, and works them beyond their strength, sometimes till they expire. He feels no loss in their death, he knows the plantation must be supplied, and his humanity is estimated by his interest, which rises always above freezing point. It is the poor negroes who alone work hard, and I am sorry to say, fare hard. Incredible is the fatigue which the poor wretches undergo, and it is wonderful that nature should be able to support it. There certainly must be some- thing in their constitution as well as their color different from us, that enables them to endure it. They are called up at daybreak, and seldom allowed to swallow a mouthful of hominy or hoecake, but are drawn out into the field immedi- ately, where they continue at hard labor without intermission till noon, when they go to their dinners, and are seldom allowed an hour for that purpose. Their meal consists of
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 41
hominy and salt, and if their master is a man of humanity, touched by the finer feelings of love and sensibility, he allows them twice a week a little fat, skimmed milk, rusty bacon and salt herring to relish this miserable and scanty fare. The man of this plantation in lieu of these, grants his negroes an acre of ground, and all Saturday afternoons, to raise grain and poultry for themselves. After they have dined, they re- turn to labor in the field till dusk in the evening. Here one naturally imagines the daily labor of these poor creatures was over. Not so. They repair to the tobacco houses where each has a task of stripping allotted, which takes up some hours, or else they have such a quantity of Indian corn to husk; and if they neglect it, they are tied up in the morning, and receive a number of lashes from those unfeeling monsters, the overseers, whose masters suffer them to exercise their brutal authority without restraint. Thus by their night task it is late in the evening before these poor creatures return to their second scanty meal, and the time taken up at it en- croaches upon their hours of sleep, which for refreshment of food and sleep together can never be reckoned to exceed eight. When they lay themselves down to rest, their comforts are equally miserable and limited; for they sleep on a bench or on the ground, with an old scanty blanket, which serves them at once for bed and covering. Their clothing is not less wretched, consisting of a shirt and trousers of coarse, thin, hard, hempen stuff in tne summer, with an addition of a very coarse woolen jacket, breeches and shoes in winter. But since the war the masters, for they cannot get the clothing as usual, suffer them to go in rags, and many in a state of nudity. The female slaves share labor and repose just in the same manner, except a few who are termed house negroes, and are employed in household drudgery. These poor crea- tures are all submissive to injuries and insults, and are obliged to be passive. The law directs the negro's arm to be cut off, who raises it against a white person. Notwithstanding this humiliating state and rigid treatment to which they are sub- ject, they are devoid of care, contented and happy, blest with an easy, satisfied disposition. They always carry out a piece
42 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
of fire, and kindle one near their work, let the weather be ever so hot and sultry.
"There were, and still are, three degrees of rank among the inhabitants, exclusive of the negroes ; but I am afraid the advantage of distinction will never exist again in this country, in the same manner it did before the commencement of hostil- ities. The first class consists of gentlemen of the best families and fortunes, which are more respectable and nuuKrous here than in anj' other province. P'or the most part they have jjad liberal educations, possess a thorough knowledge o{j^»|l(orId, with great ease and freedom in their manners ana conversation. Many of them keep their car- riages, have handsome services of plate, and without excep- tion kp'ep their studs, as well as sets of handsome carriage horses.
"The second class consists of such a strange mixture of character, and of such various descriptions of occupation, being nearly half the inliabitants, that it is difficult to ascer- tain their exact criterion and leading feature. They are however hospitable, generous and friendly; but for a want of a proper knowledge of the world, and a good education, as well as from their continual intercourse with their slaves, over whom they are accustomed to tyrannize, with all their good qualities they are rude, ferocious and haughty, much addicted to gaming and dissipation, particularly horse racing and cock fighting. In short, they form a most un- accounta])le combination of qualities, directly opposite and contradictory, many having them strangely blended with the best and worst of principles, many possessing elegant accom- plishments and savage brutality; and notwithstanding all this inconsistency of character, numbers are valuable mem- bers of the community, and very few deficient in intellectual faculties.
"The third class, which in general composes the greatest part of mankind are fewer in Virginia in proportion to the inhabitants, than perhaps in any other country of the world ; yet even tho.se who are rude, illiberal and noisy, with a tur- bulent disposition, are generous, kind and hospitable. We
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 43
are induced to imagine there is something peculiar in the climate of Virginia, that should render all classes of so hos- pitable a disposition. The lower people possess that imper- tinent curiosity so disagreeable to strangers, but in no degree equal to the inhabitants of New England. They are averse to labor, much addicted to liquor, and when intoxicated ex- tremely savage and revengeful. Their amusements are the same with those of the middling sort, with the addition of boxing matches.
"We found many gentlemen of the province very liberal and hospitable to the British officers, among whom I may mention Messrs. Randolph, of Tuckahoe, Goode, of Chester- field, and Gary, of Warwick. In conversing with the pris- oners, they carefully refrain from politics. So warm and bigotted was the prevailing spirit, that those who exercise i such courtesy incurred much criticism and censure. Some went so far on this account as to threaten to burn Colonel Randolph's mills. He however treated the matter with an easy independence, offering on the other hand five hundred pounds for the discovery of those who made the threat.
"There is a place called Kentucky, whose soil is ex- tremely fruitful, and where an abundance of buffaloes is found. The emigration of the people to that place is amaz- ing, seeking thereby to escape the tyranny and oppressions of the Congress, and its. upstart dependents.
"In this neighborhood I visited Colonel Walker, a mem- ber of Congress, and found his home a hospitable house, but unpleasant, because the family chiefly conversed on politics, though with moderation. His father is a man of strong understanding, though considerably above eighty years of age. He freely declared his opinions of what America would be a hundred years hence, and said the people would reverence the resolution of their fathers, and impress the same feeling on their children, so that they would adopt the same measures to secure their freedom, which had been used by their brave ancestors."
As can be seen by every intelligent reader, some of the information Anbury received from others was erroneous, or
44 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
misunderstood, mauy of his observations were no doubt hastily formed, and all related to a country, and people, suf- fering: under the hardships of war, and were tinctured by the prejudices and mortification of a vanquished enemy. Still his account is full of interest to those now living, inasmuch as it exhibits the views of a young man of cleverness and education, and especially of one who spent nearly two years of that memorable era on the soil of the county, and among the men who were then the conductors of its affairs. Copies of his Travels, as his book was called, are now rarely to be found.
Not long before the removal of the prisoners, an unhappy tragedy occurred at the Barracks. James Garland, Jr., an officer of the guards, was killed by Ivawrence Mansfield while on duty as a sentinel. According to all the traditions connected with the case, it was a justifiable homicide. It was owing to a refusal to halt and give the countersign. The motive of Garland is differently explained. One ac- count represents him as designing to test the competence and fidelity of the guard. Another version has it, that he was indulging a spirit of frolic. With a number of compan- ions he had been invited to an entertainment in the neighbor- hood. As they mounted their horses, he announced that he would have a little fun with the sentry. He preceded the others, and approaching the station was hailed. He con- tinued to ride on heedless of the warning. The sentinel raised his gun, and intended, as he said afterwards, to fire above the offender; but just as the gun was discharged, Garland's horse reared, and the ball struck the rider's head with fatal effect. His remains were buried on his farm some miles west of Batesville, and but a few years ago his grave was pointed out near the cabin of a negro, who in the changes of the times had become the owner of the place. The will of the unfortunate man is on record, and from the serious spirit with which it is pervaded, one would judge that the first account more probably indicates the reason of his conduct.
The Tarleton Raid upon Charlottesville took place in June,
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 45
1781. With two hundred and fifty horse, the British com- mander was passing I^oiiisa C. H. at a rapid rate, when they were seen by John Jouett, who at the time was a temporary sojourner at the place. Suspecting their object, he leaped on his horse, and being familiar with the roads he took the shortest cuts, and soon left the enem}^ behind. He obtained a considerable advantage in addition by the detention Tarle- ton underwent at Castle Hill, where he stopped for breakfast, and for thecapture of several members of the Legislature who were visiting Dr. Walker. Meeting an acquaintance near Milton, he despatched him to Monticello to warn Mr. Jeffer- son, who was then Governor of the State, while he pushed on to give the alarm at Charlottesville. By this means the Legislature which had just convened at that place, was notified in time to adjourn, and make a precipitate retreat to Staunton. After a short interval Tarleton and his troop entered the town. Though disappointed in their main object, they remained a part of two days, and it is said destroyed a thousand firelocks, four hundred barrels of powder, together with a considerable quantity of clothing and tobacco. The most important as well as most useless waste they committed, was the destruction of the public records already mentioned — a great contrast to the orders given the officer detailed to Monticello, to allow nothing on the premises to be injured. It is stated that Captain John Martin, a son-in-law of old David Lewis, was stationed in the town with two hundred men. Had they been seasonably apprised of the real state of the case, they might have lain in ambush in the gorge below Monticello, and sent the enemy on their return more quickly than they came. But the suddenness of the alarm , the uncer- tainty respecting the numbers approaching, and the wide- spread terror of Tarleton's name, probably led Captain Martin to think that the most prudent course was to withdraw from the scene.
While at Charlottesville, Tarleton made his headquarters at the Farm, the residence of Nicholas Lewis. The story is told, that in living on the enemy, the British soldiers speedily made way with a fine flock of ducks belonging to Mrs. Lewis,
46 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
at the same time for some reason laying no hands on its veteran leader. When after Tarleton's departure she was informed of her loss, she promptl}^ ordered a servant to take the forlorn drake, and riding after the Colonel to present it to him with her compliments. Appreciating the courteous irony of the act, the Colonel bade the servant present his mistress in return his profoundest thanks. It is also related, that Mrs. Lewis was not as bitter in her feelings towards the invaders of her country as the other members of her family, and that the arm chair in which Tarleton sat while an inmate of her house was ever after cherished as an object of special veneration.
As the buildings of Charlottesville were not numerous at that period, it is a question of some interest where the Legis- lature held its sessions. It is rather singular that no authen- tic tradition in regard to it has been handed down. It has been claimed, that they convened in the tavern which stood on the corner of Market and Fifth Streets, where the City Hall now stands. The same claim has been made respecting the old Swan Tavern. The house, which is situated in the rear of the late Thomas Wood's, and which is said to have been removed from the public square in front of the court house as a cottage of the Eagle Tavern, has also been pointed out as the building; but it is not likely that the Eagle Tavern was built as early as the Revolutionary War. The strong probability is that the courthouse was the place of their meeting. It may have been this circumstance that brought Tarleton's vengeance on its contents ; and for nearly fifty years subsequent to that date, it afforded accommodation to almost all tlie public assemblies of the town, both civil and ecclesi- astical.
The anecdote is recounted by the historians of Augusta County in regard to Patrick Henry flying with breathless haste, when a rumor of Tarleton's approach created a panic in Staunton. The same story is told, with the scene laid in Albemarle, and a sturdy Scotch Irish matron of the Blue Ridge section as the great man's devoted admirer. The ora- tor with two companions in their llight to Staunton, alighted
HisTOKY OF Albemarle' 47
at a house near the Ridge to procure the means of refreshing their weary frames after their hard ride. The mother of the household, while superintending a supply for their wants, learned that thej' were members of the Legislature, and were escaping from the dreaded Tarleton. She eyed them with evident contempt, and at length declared her firm belief, that if Patrick Henry had been there, he never would have quailed before the foe. "Why, madam," said one of his friends, laughing, "there is the man himself!" The announcement received no credit, till the silence of the dis- tinguished fugitive brought about a reluctant assent. The looks of the woman betrayed her utter amazement, and she no doubt thought that things were indeed fast rushing to ruin, v/hen the idol of her trust had so wofullj^ failed.
It seems there were owners of land in Albemarle, whose sj-mpathies ran on the British side during tl:e Revolution. Under the law confiscating the property of such persons to the State, six inquisitions were held in the year 1779 before Peter Marks, the public escheator. One of these referred to eight hundred acres of John Lidderdale on Buck Mountain Creek, and was held on the premises ; another to Lot Twenty- Two in Charlottesville, on which the former Presbyterian Church stands, and which belonged to Robert Bain; another to seven and a half acres adjoining Charlottesville on the east, belonging to Donald Scott &. Co., the property afterwards owned by Judge Dabney Carr, and later the home of Ira Garrett; both of these inquisitions were held in Charlottes- ville. Another referred to more than three thousand acres on Ivy Creek, and fifty-two negroes, the property of Francis Jerdone, including the Farmington estate, and was held at the house of his steward, James Garland, Jr. ; another to two hundred acres on the south fork of Hardware, and the last to four hundred and fifty acres on James River, both tracts belonging to Henderson, McCaul & Co., the inquisition on the former being held on the premises, and that on the latter at the house of Charles Irving. In all these cases the juries rendered a verdict of condemnation. Robert Bain however appears to have made his peace with the State, as in 1781 the
48 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
Legislature bj' a special act restored his estate, or made com- pensation for whatever part had been sold, on condition of his taking the oath of allegiance. Francis Jerdone too must in some way have made proper amends in the public eye, as he himself sold the same property to George Divers in 1785. It may be interesting to mention the names of the jury which sat in Charlottesville: James Kerr, foreman, James Marks, Thomas Garth, Bennett Henderson, Charles Lilburn Ivcwis, Benjamin Dod Wheeler, Richard Woods, Charles Statham, John Ke}', Benajah Gentr}^ Isham I^ewis, William Grayson and Jacob Oglesby. In this connection it may be stated, that in August 1785 a deed from Thomas Meriwether, heir-at-law of Captain David Meriwether, to Chiles Terrell was ordered to be recorded, and a note was entered at the same time, that the same deed had been presented at November Court 1777, but its record had been refused, because of the suspicion that Mr. Terrell had not taken the oath of allegiance. In all ages, such differences of opinion have occurred in the trying ordeals of warm political strife.
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 49
CHAPTER III.
A weather-beaten stone lies near the centre of Maplewood Cemetery in Charlottesville, inscribed with the name of Letitia Shelby, and the statement that she departed this life on September 7th, 1777. This Cemetery was not laid out until 1831. Previous to that time families of the town were generally in the habit of interring their dead in their own lots. A public graveyard however is said to have existed on the road to Cochran's Mill, about where the residence of Drury Wood now stands, and from this place this stone was removed after Maplewood was established. It is declared by descendants of the Shelby family, that this Letitia was the wife of General Evan Shelby, and mother of General Isaac Shelby, the first Governor of Kentucky. A curious inquiry arises how she came to be in Charlottesville, or in Albe- marle County, at the time of her death.
Evan Shelby was an immigrant from Wales, and at first settled in Maryland, near Hagerstown. There his son Isaac was born in 1750. In the year 1771 father and son were both in southwestern Virginia, in the neighborhood of Bristol; and there the home of Evan Shelby continued to be during his life. It is natural to suppose that his wife, whose maiden name was Eetitia Cox, accompanied them to their new home in the West. Whether she was visiting friends in Albemarle, or was passing through on a journey, at the period of her last sickness, it is perhaps impossible now to ascertain. But the plain, well preserved inscription on her tombstone leaves no doubt that this vicinity was the place of her death. A tradition in the Floyd family states, that about 1680 a Nathaniel Davis, who was also a native of Wales, married a child of Nicketti, a daughter of the Indian Chief, Opechan- canough, the brother of Powhatan. Robert Davis was a son of these parents, and an ancestor of Jefferson Davis, President of the Confederacy; and a granddaughter of Robert Davis —4
50 HISTORY O-P ALBEMARLE
was the wife of Evan Shelby. Probability is lent to this account by the fact, that Robert Davis had a son named Samuel, who would thus be the uncle of L,etitia Shelby ; and Samuel Davis was the owner of several tracts of land in Albemarle, on the north fork of Rockfish, on Green Creek, and on both sides of Moore's Creek, adjoining the Carter lands. At the time of her death, Mrs. Shelby may have been visiting the family of this man.
General George Rogers Clark, the famous conqueror of the North West Territory, first saw the light in Albemarle. His grandfather, Jonathan Clark, of King and Queen County, joined with Hickman, Graves and Smith, as already men- tioned, in patenting more than three thousand acres of land on the north side of the Rivanna. opposite the Free Bridge. ' In the division of this land, the upper portion fell to Clark; and in a house situated a short distance from the present residence of Captain C. M. McMurdo, John Clark, the son of Jonathan, lived, and George Rogers was born. The wife of John Clark, and mother of George, was Ann Rogers, a sister of Giles, George and Byrd Rogers, all of whom pos- sessed land in Albemarle, in the Buck Mountain region. The birth of George Rogers Clark occurred in 1752, and when he was about five years of age his father removed to Caroline, where a kinsman had devised to him a handsome estate. It is not known that in his active and eventful life, the General was ever again in the county of his birth but once. In the fall of 1777 he travelled from Kentucky to Richmond, to procure means for setting on foot the expedi- tion to Illinois, which he had already conceived, and which he carried out the next year. His route lay through Cum- berland Gap, and the Holston country. He came down the Valley, and crossed the Blue Ridge at Rockfish Gap, or one of the gaps just above. He states in his diary that he spent the night at a Mr. Black's, who was beyond question James Black, a son of the old Presbyterian minister, who kept a tavern on the place afterwards owned by Alexander Garrett, and his son, Dr. Boiling Garrett. On his way to Richmond next day he passed through Charlottesville, where he tarried
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 51
long enough to purchase a pair of shoes. During this visit to Richmond he became acquainted with Mr. Jefferson, and deeply impressed him with his vigorous and heroic qualities. In a letter Jefferson wrote to Judge Innes, of Kentucky, in 1791, he says,
"Will it not be possible for you to bring General Clark forward? I know the greatness of his mind, and am the more mortified at the cause which obscures it. Had not this unhappily taken place, there was nothing he might not have hoped; could it be surmounted, bis lost ground might yet be recovered. No man alive rated him higher than I did, and would again, were he to become again what I knew him. We are made to hope he is engaged in writing the account of his expedition north of the Ohio. They will be valuable morsels of history, and will justify to the world those who have told them how great he was."
William Clark, who was associated with Meriwether Ivcwis in his exploring tour across the Rocky Mountains, was a brother of George, but he was born in Caroline in 1770.
Albemarle was the place of residence of Doctor Thomas Walker, one of the most remarkable men of his day. With his expeditions to southwest Virginia were connected some inter- esting and romantic facts of personal history. In the course of these travels he made the acquaintance of William Inglis, who married a Draper, planted the first white settlement west of the AUeghanies at Draper's Meadows, near the present site of Blacksburg, and subsequently spent his remaining days at Inglis's Ferry on New River. Inglis and his family suffered the common penalty of those who led the way in f peopling the wilderness. His wife and children were cap- tured by the Indians, his wife marvellously escaped the same year, but his son Thomas was retained among them for a period of thirteen years. Being in the plastic season of childhood, the latter became so thoroughly inured to the habits of Indian life, that it was difficult to break their power ; in fact, it never was wholly broken. However, when his father penetrated the remote forests of Ohio to effect his ransom, he seemed to feel the promptings of natural affection, and
52 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
returned with him to the old home. After being taught his native language, and the rudiments of learning, he was sent to Castle Hill, and placed under Doctor Walkers's care. Here he continued for three or four years, and made consid- erable progress in the elementary branches of education. But here he was also brought under a spell, which softened him far more than all the endearments of parental love, and all the mollifying influence of letters. He fell in love with a young woman of the neighborhood named Eleanor Grills. A John Grills in 1745 and subsequent years, became the owner by patent and purchase of more than two thousand acres of land in the county, part of it lying on Moore's Creek, where he built a mill, and where one has continued ever since, on the present site of Hartman's Mill. He was also the original purchaser of Lot Eighteen in the new county seat, the western half of the square on which Lipscomb's stable stands. Although he seems to have sold his possessions in Albemarle about the time Thomas Inglis came to the county, it is likely he continued to reside here or in Louisa, and that Eleanor was his daughter. At all events young Inglis, when he returned to his father's house in 1772, was bound to her by a promise of marriage. He was a Lieuten- ant in Colonel Christian's regiment in the battle of Point Pleasant in 1774; and the next year, crowned with the lau- rels of successful warfare, he returned to Albemarle, and secured the hand of his bride. He first settled on Wolf Creek of- New River; but unable to repress the roving disposition contracted during his sojourn among the Indians, he soon removed to Burke's Garden, where in an incursion of the savages he nearly lost his wife, then to Knoxville, and finally to Natchez in Mississippi, where at length he closed his wanderings with the close of his life.
Another incident of personal history may be noted, illustrat- ing the progress of the early settlements, and the fortunes of individuals. As previously stated, a Dennis Doyle patented in 1741 eight hundred acres of land on the north fork of Moorman's River, and from him the stream acquired its name. In 1749 Doyle conveyed to William Battersby, the lawyer, a
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 53
tract of four hundred acres on Biscuit Run, another of four hundred in North Garden, and another of eight hundred on Totier Creek. He appears to have been a man of means, and to have been still living in the county in 1760; as in that year was born within its limits John Doyle, who was in all probability a son of Dennis. At the age of eighteen, John accompanied the march of General George Rogers Clark into the North West Territory. Returning to Albemarle, he joined the army, and served to the close of the Revolu- tionary War. The year after the surrender at Yorktown, he was a private in Colonel Crawford's disastrous expedition against the Ohio Indians, but fortunately got back to the settlements in safety. In 1786 he went to Kentucky near Maysville, was a friend of Simon Kenton, and for three years occupied the post of captain of scouts on the Ohio River- He was in service with General Harmar in 1790, and under Scott with General Wayne in 1794. He then settled in what is now Lewis County, Kentucky, where he discharged the duties of a magistrate for more than twenty years. But his active and adventurous life was not yet ended. In 1813 he enlisted again under General Shelby, and took part in the battle of the Thames. He survived until May 1847, having nearly com- pleted his eighty-seventh year, find blest with the vigorous exercise of his powers to the end. In all his long life he was seldom sick, and in all his exposure to peril he was never wounded.
The depreciation in the paper money of the country at the close of the Revolution, was apparent in the enormous prices paid for land. One hundred acres in the southern part of the county, not far from Heard's Mountain, sold for five thousand pounds, fifty acres on Buck Mountain Creek for four thou- sand, and a hundred and eighty -eight acres on Moorman's River for six thousand. Samuel Dedman sold to James Lewis ten acres on the Ragged Mountains beyond the Uni- versity, for ten thousand pounds, while Samuel Muse sold to Andrew Monroe, a brother of the President, two hundred and seven acres at the head of Mechum's River for twenty thou- sand , the same tract which two years before, also in war times,
54 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
brought eight hundred and thirty, and which sixteen years before, with two hundred acres in addition, brought only thirty-five. At the same time John Curd sold to John Coles two hundred acres for fifty pounds "hard money," and Matthew Mills, of Guilford County, North Carolina, sold to William Leigh five hundred and seventy -five acres, not far east of the Miller School, for two hundred pounds sterling. All these sales took place the latter part of 1781. The story is told by tradition, that George Divers rode from Philadel- phia to Albemarle, and broke down five horses in the ride, to purchase Farmington with paper money, and that the pur- chase had scarcely been consummated when the money became worthless ; but as this transfer did not occur till 1785, the story may admit of some doubt.
A large part of the business of the County Court immedi- ately after the Revolution consisted in certifying to bills for supplies furnished the army and the Barracks prisoners, to the value of articles taken for public use, and to pensions for soldiers disabled in the service. The location of the prison camp in the county proved a great pecuniary benefit to the inhabitants. From a long distance in the surrounding coun- try they carried thither, and to the different places where the officers lodged, quantities of corn, flour, meal, beef, pork and wood. In the prostration of business, and the consequent hard times occasioned by a state of hostilities, the demand for these commodities afforded a convenient market, of which most other parts of the country were destitute. It is said that Colonel William Cabell mainly paid for the fine Oak Hill estate in Nelson with the various kinds of produce fur- nished the Barracks, the land having been confiscated because the former owners were alien enemies. Colonel John Coles was allowed three hundred pounds for horses taken by Baron Steuben. Hastings Marks received remuneration for horses and wagons employed in the service. Joseph Morton was allowed five pounds, six shillings, and eight pence for his gun, "taken for the militia in 1781," and Edmund Woody was recompensed for his, "taken during the late invasion." Captain John Martin was awarded an allowance for conduct-
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 55
ing the Convention troops, that is, the Barracks prisoners, to Frederick, Maryland. The detachments of the army men- tioned as having been supplied in this vicinity, were Baron Steuben's Command, Colonel Armand's Legion, and Captain Walker's Company. John Burton and Richard Marshall were assigned pensions at the rate of forty dollars a year. For the purpose of establishing proper lines of inheritance, it was certified that Charles Goolsby, corporal, and James and John Goolsby, privates, died in the service, Charles and James having been taken prisoners at Germantown, and that William Hardin was killed at Ninety Six, and John Gillaspy, of the Ninth Virginia, at Germantown.
The statute guaranteeing religious freedom having been enacted, the law which required all marriages to be solemn- ized by ministers of the established Church was abolished, and the courts were authorized to license ministers of all denominations to perform that ceremony. In accordance with this provision^ William Irvin, Presbyterian, was licensed to celebrate the rite in 1784, and Matthew Maury, Episco- palian, and William Woods, Benjamin Burgher and Martin Dawson, Baptists, the next year. The first Methodist min- ister mentioned as receiving such a license, was Athanasius Thomas, who lived near the present site of Crozet. This occurred in 1793, and was followed in 1797 by the licensing of William Calhoun, Presbyterian, and John Gibson, Metho- dist. John Shepherd, Methodist, was licensed in 1798.
The migratory spirit which characterized the early settlers, was rapidly developed at this period. Removals to other parts of the country had begun some years before the Revo- lution. The direction taken at first was towards the South. A numerous body of emigrants from Albemarle settled in North Carolina. After the war many emigrated to Georgia, but a far greater number hastened to fix their abodes on the fertile lands of the West, especially the blue grass region of Kentucky. For a time the practice was prevalent on the part of those expecting to change their domicile, of applying to the County Court for a formal recommendation of character, and certificates were given, declaring them to be honest men
56 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
and good citizens. Among those who were thus commended to the people of Georgia, were James Marks, one of the magistrates, Abraham Eades, William Sandridge, Christo- pher Cl^rk, Bennett Henderson, and William and Samuel Sorrow. James Marks was not long after followed by his brother. Colonel John Marks, who removed during his in- cumbency in the office of Sheriff. An act of the I^egislature was passed in November 1788, which recited that no sale of lands in Albemarle County delinquent for taxes for the years 1786 and 1787, was legally possible, because of John Marks, Sheriff of said county, removing some time within those years to Georgia, and which therefore authorized William Clark, one of his deputies, to make such sales.
The increasing business of the colonies, the desire to develop their resources, and perhaps the threatening aspect of their relations with the mother country, led to early efforts to manufacture iron in this county. Three men from Balti- more, Nathaniel Giles, John lyce Webster, and John Wilkin- son, bought land for this purpose in the latter part of 1768. Giles and Webster disappear after the first purchase. The next year Wilkinson was joined by John Old, from Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, and they made further purchases along the Hardware in the vicinity of North Garden and the Cove. In 1771 the Albemarle Furnace Company was formed, with a capital of two thousand pounds, the following gentlemen being stockholders, James Buchanan to the amount of three hundred pounds. Dr. William Cabell of two hundred. Colonel William Cabell of two hundred, Joseph Cabell of one hundred, Edward Carter of three hundred, Allen Howard of two hundred, Thomas Jefferson of one hun- dred, Nicholas Lewis of one hundred, John Scott of one hundred, John Walker of one hundred, and Dr. Thomas Walker of three hundred. Larger areas of mineral land were purchased on the lower Hardware, and among the Ragged Mountains. As far as can be ascertained, three furnaces were built, one about a mile below Carter's Bridge, giving to a colonial church erected near by the name of the Forge Church, another where the old Lynchburg Road crosses the
HISTORY OF ALBKMARLE 57
north fork of Hardware, long known as Old's Forge, and the third on the south fork of Hardware below the Falls, and south of Garland's Store. The last still remains in a toler- able state of preservation, though covered with a thick growth of bushes and small trees. Local traditions yet linger, that ore was excavated near North Garden and the Cove during the Revolutionary War. Mr. Jefferson states in his Notes, that among the iron mines worked in Virginia at the time of their composition, was "Old's, on the north side of James River in Albemarle." The enterprise however ap- pears not to have been successful. Colonel Old soon became a farmer, instead of an iron -master. A suit instituted in the County Court under the style of Cabell v. Wilkinson to wind up the affairs of the Company, was determined in 1796, and Andrew Hart and Samuel Dyer as Commissioners made sale of all the lands, Nicholas Cabell becoming the purchaser. Of all the mines opened by Wilkinson and Old, the only one now remaining is that known as the Betsy Martin Mine in Cook's Mountain, near North Garden; and though its ore seems rich and plentiful, it has not been worked for a number of years, because of some foreign ingredient which impairs its utility.
In 1789, and the years succeeding, an eager ambition was manifested to build up towns iii the county. At the first mentioned date an act of the Legislature was passed, vesting one hundred acres of the land of Bennett Henderson at a place on the Rivanna called the Shallows, in Wilson C. Nicholas, Francis Walker, Edward Carter, Charles L. Lewis, William Clark, Howell Lewis and Edward Moore, to be laid out as a town, and sold in half acre lots, and to be called Milton. More than twenty lots were sold in the next ten years. The first disposed of was bought by. Christian Wertenbaker, and among others who became lot holders were Joel Shinctt. Edward Butler, Richard Price, James and John Key, William Clark, Jacob Oglesby, George Bruce and Joseph J. Monroe. The village was soon in a thriving state, rapidly growing, and transacting a prosperous business. Up to the war of 1812 it was ihe chief commercial centre of the county. Except in
58 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
time of freshets, it was the head of navigation on the Rivanna, and became the shipping port of perhaps three- fourths of the county, and of a large section of the Valley. Some who have but recently been gathered to their fathers, could remember the long lines of wagons that formerly passed over Swift Run and Brown's Gaps, and crossed the South West Mountain at Hammock's (Thurman's) Gap, bringing their loads of grain, flour and tobacco to the warehouses of the newly erected town. The brook on the north side of the river, which at first bore the romantic name of Mountain Falls Creek, became at this time Camping Branch, from the multi- tude of wagoners who camped with their teams along its banks. Milton was the seat of a public Tobacco Warehouse, called Henderson's, long after the Henderson family had removed to Kentucky, and regularly equipped with a corps of inspectors; for many years William D. Fitch, Jacob Oglesby, John Fagg and Richard Gambell discharged the functions pertaining to that office. A large merchant mill was also erected by the Hendersons. A number of firms conducted the trade of the place, and in some cases laid the foundation of large fortunes; among these were Fleming and McClanahan, Henderson and Conard, Peyton and Price, Divers, Rives & Co., Brown, Rives & Co., Martin Dawson, William and Julius Clarkson, David Higginbotham & Co. Its business gradually declined as Charlottesville grew; and when the town of Scottsville was established, and the site of the University fixed near the county seat, its prestige was completely broken, and it quietly subsided into the straggling hamlet which now crowns the river hill.
About the same time Warren was projected by Wilson C. Nicholas on James River, at the mouth of Ballenger's Creek. A few lots were sold and a few houses built. An extensive mill and distillery were erected and carried on for some years by Samuel Sbelton & Co. A large stone tavern was built by Jacob Kinney, afterwards of Staunton, rented for some time, and finally sold to William Brown, under whose management it made a prominent figure in its day. At this village was located another Tobacco Warehouse called Nicholas's, which
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 59
in the early part of the century shipped about as many hogs- heads as Henderson's. The first inspectors were Clifton Garland, Abraham Eades, Samuel Childress, Robert Moor- man and John T. Holman. Beyond these enterprises Warren never made much progress.
About the beginning of the century plans were outlined for four other towns, of which even the memory has perished from among men. One was North Milton, laid out by Thomas Mann Randolph on the north side of the Rivanna, opposite Milton. It was established by the Legislature and placed in the hands of trustees. Those appointed to that office were Francis Walker, William D. Meriwether, Edward Moore, James Barbour, William Bache, George Divers, Hore Brouse Trist, Edward Garland and David Higginbotham. It appears the only lot ever sold was Lot numbered Eight, and that was conveyed to John Watson in 1802 . Still another Tobacco Warehouse was established here, and for a short period conducted under the same inspection that had the oversight of the warehouse at Milton. But the place was over shadowed by its neighbor across the river, and from all indications, never had more than a name.
The other three attempts were private speculations. Travellers' Grove, a name suggestive of refreshment and repose, was planned by Colonel John Everett at the junction of what are now known as the Lynchburg and the Taylor's Gap Roads. Four lots formally numbered, but apparently unmarked by improvements of any kind, were sold to a Paul Apple, and subsequently underwent two other transfers. There their history terminates. Not long after Colonel Everett disposed of the environs of the new town, and removed to Cabell County. He was succeeded in the possession of Travellers' Grove by James Kinsolving, Jr., in whose time the name was changed to Pleasant Grove. In later years the place was purchased by the Methodist churches of the adjacent circuit for a parsonage, and though held now by other hands, it still goes in the neighborhood by that name.
Another of these mushroom creations was New York, or as it was colloquially spoken of. Little York. It was estab-
60 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE,
lished by James Hays at the foot of the Blue Ridge, a few- hundred yards north of the present road to Staunton. At the time it was laid out, the road passed along its main street. Like Charlottesville it was divided into lots and out lots. Its first inhabitants were for the most part Germans from Pennsylvania, Greegors, Spieces, Hallers, Landcrafts. Its manufactories were a smith's shop, and a tanyard. It was once the seat of a postoffice, and had a meeting house. More than that, it had a place on the map of Virginia, published in 1824. At present no sign of buildings or streets can be seen, its very ruins have disappeared, and its site is a fertile field, on which a late proprietor raised the most abun- dant crop of corn he has ever gathered.
In some respects the most remarkable of these temporary municipalitieswas Morgantown,a place well known, but not by that name. It was a pretentious city on paper, laid off into at least two hundred and fifteen lots, and wood lots, as they were called. It was situated on the main road to Staunton, about a mile west of Ivy Depot. It was planned by a man named Gideon Morgan, and sold by lottery at the rate of fifty dollars a ticket. The special attraction was L,ot One Hundred and Seventy-six, on which were built a large brick house and stable, and this attraction had such power that tickets were purchased by persons, not only in Albemarle^ but also from the surrounding counties, Frederick, Shenan- doah, Rockingham, Bath, Augusta, Rockbridge, Fluvanna, and even places as far distant as Henrico and Lancaster Counties, and the city of Philadelphia. Among those who participated in the affair from Augusta were Chesley Kinney, Jacob Swoope and Judge John Coalter; while from Albe- marle were Peter and John Carr, Isaac Miller, Elijah Garth, Richard Gambell, Andrew Kean and Thomas Wells. The fortunate ticket-holder was George Anderson, of Greenbrier, who sold the place to Benjamin Hardin. In 1821 Anderson's widow, then living in Montgomery County, conveyed her interest in the property to Hardin, to whom Morgan also sold his remaining land. Hardin kept tavern there down to 1827 or 1828, when the place was sold for his debts. As the
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 61
other lots lay on bare fields and forest, running up on Turner's Mountain, the owners most probably quietly abandoned them, and allowed them to lapse into Hardin's possession. In 1814 however, Micajah Woods and wife conveyed to Har- din two lots which had been drawn by William Davenport, and Taylor and Newbold, of Philadelphia, conveyed to him another in 1821. Altogether one hundred and nine persons bought tickets, and Morgan derived from his few acres, nearly twice as much as the county derived from the thou- sand acres on which Charlottesville was built. Intoxicated by his success, he went over to Rockingham and projected another town not far from Port Republic, which he named New Haven ; but in this attempt he was not so highly prospered. The last heard of him, he was living in Rowan County, Tennessee As will be readily conjectured, the brick house and stable are still standing, the same that Francis McGee occupied as a tavern after Hardin, and that was recently the residence of his daughter, Mrs. John J. Woods.
It may be stated, that another town, called Barterbrook, spread itself in the books more extensively than it did on the face of the earth. Its situation was on the west side of the road to Stony Point, just where it crosses the branch oppo- site Liberty Church. It contained a tanyard, and a tavern, which had the significant appellation of Pinch'em -slyly. A muster ground was contiguous, where the militia company of the district assembled to perform their exercises, and where Joshua Key, a neighboring magistrate, was often called upon to exert his authority for the preservation of the peace. According to the records. Lot Fifty -Six in Barter- brook was conveyed by William Smith to Thomas Travil- lian's heirs, by said heirs to Pleasant Sandridge, of Green County, Kentucky, and by Sandridge to Dr. John Gilmer, when it became a part of the Edgemont estate. A successor in some sort, possessing the same name, and consisting principally of a tanyard conducted by Bernard Carr, was at a later date located in the western part of the county, near Mechum's River.
An impression has prevailed with many, that the cele-
62 HISTORY OF ALBKMARLE
brated statesman and philosopher, Benjimin Franklin, was once a visitor in Albemarle, and while here purchased a plan- tation for his son. There is no real ground for this impres- sion. A Benjamin Franklin did live in the county in its early days, but he came from Orange, and died in 1751. Franklin,. the philosopher, appears never to have been South but once, and then he visited Charleston, South Carolina, mak- ing the journey most probably by sea. He had but one son who lived beyond maturity, who in all likelihood was never South at all, and who was the Tory Governor of New Jersey, obliged at the close of the Revolution to leave the country, never to return. But it is true, that a grandson of Franklin came to Albemarle, bought property, and resided on it for a short time. His name was William Bache, the son of Frank- lin's daughter, and already referred to as one of the trustees of North Milton. In 1799 he purchased from James Key the farm which is known as the old Craven place, and which still bears the name of Franklin. The letters of the Jeffer- son household about that period make mention of him and his family. His son, Benjamin Franklin Bache, a distin- guished surgeon in the navy, is stated in Appleton's Bio- graphical Cyclopedia to have been born at Monticello, February 7th, 1801. William Bache was evidently not blest with prosperity. He incurred many debts, was harrassed with many lawsuits, gave a deed of trust to Thomas Mann Randolph to sell Franklin, and left the State. He was a physician by profession. His place was sold to Richard Sampson in 1804. Dr. Bache while here also invested in Charlottesville lots. He bought from David Ross lyOts Forty-Three and Forty-Four, now cut in two by the track of the Chesapeake & Ohio Railroad ; and in 1837 they were conveyed to Dr. Hardin Massie by his son B F. Bache and his wife, and his daughter Sarah and her husband, who was Rev. Dr. Charles Hodge, the eminent professor of theology' at Princeton.
John Blair, Justice of the United States Supreme Court, was also a land owner in Albemarle. The old Michael Woods place, Mountain Plains, at the mouth of Woods' Gap,
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 63
descended to his son William, who sold it to Thomas Adams, a resident, the latter part of his life, of the Pasture District of Augusta County. Adams, who died in 1788, made title by his will to this and other parcels of land he had bought in the neighborhood, amounting to nearly a thousand acres, to Judge Blair — "To my honorable friend, John Blair, Esq., Chancellor, all the lands he purchased of me in Albemarle County, known by the name of Mountain Plains, and for which he has long since honestly paid me." From him the place has since acquired the name of Blair Park. Judge Blair devised it to his two daughters, through whom it came to their two sons, James P. Henderson and John Blair Peachy. In 1831 Peachy sold his interest to Henderson. After Henderson's death in 1835, it passed into other hands.
A still more distinguished jurist. Chief Justice Marshall, owned land in the county. He was once the proprietor of the old D. S. place. He purchased it from Henry Williams about 1809, and in 1813 sold it to Micajah Woods.
When the county was organized, settlements had been making within its present limits for twelve or thirteen years. Williamsburg being the capital of the colony, and its public business being transacted there, it was natural that the first great roads of the country should tend in that direction. There can be little doubt that one was opened along the river James; but that leading to the more northerly portions of the county was the Three Notched Road. It was cleared on the track it pursues now, following the watershed between the South Anna and the James, and still bearing the name, though the tree-marks on account of which it was given, have not been seen for three or four generations. It passed the county line where it does now, not far from Boyd's Tavern, came up the Rivanna on its north side, crossed at the Secretary's Ford, coincided with what is now the main street of Charlottesville, crossed Ivy Creek and Mechums' River where it does still, but at that point diverged from what is the main road at present. It continued in a straight line to Woods's (now Jarman's) Gap, instead of striking the Ridge at Rockfish Gap. At the mouth of Woodg's Gap was
64 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
the first settlement in that part of the county, and for some years the chief route of travel passed over it to the Valley. In the diary of Thomas Lewis, dated 1746, in which he describes his journey to Orange County to join the surveyors appointed to run the line between the Northern Neck and the rest of the colony, he states that he crossed from Augusta at Woods's Gap, and stopped with Michael Woods both on his departure and return. As late as near the close of the Revo- lution, when Rockfish Gap was much used, the prisoners of the Convention army, as already mentioned, were upon their removal taken across the Blue Ridge at Woods's Gap. The Three Notched Road was the dividing line between the par- ishes of Fredericksville and St. Anne's.
Another road had the name of Three Notched in early times. It was the cross road leading from Carter's Bridge to Red Hill Depot. At present it is only a neighborhood road ; but when the county seat had its location near Scotts- ville, being the highway thither for all the northwestern part of the county, it occupied a place of the highest impor- tance, and was one of the earliest cleared. As settlements extended up the James in what is now Nelson and Amherst, they necessarily sought a way of access to the Court House. Accordingly one of the first roads established was that which was known as the River Road, crossing the Rockfish at Limestone Ford near Howardsville, and at another higher up, called Jopling's, and proceeding along the brow of the river hills to the county seat. In 1746 Rev. Robert Rose petitioned the County Court for the clearing of a road from Tye River to the Rockfish.
The Buck Mountain Road was made in the primitive times. This name was applied to the series of roads which start from Rockfish Gap, bend along the base of the Ridge and Buck's Klbow to Whitehall, pass over Moorman's River at Millington to Free Union and Earlysville, cross the north fork of the Rivanna at the Burnt Mills, and enter the Bar- boursville Road at Stony Point. It still follows the route on which it was originally laid out, except slight deviations for short distances to avoid some obstacle, or' gain an easier
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 65
grade. The Barboursville Road ran from the beginning, much as it does now. Just after the county was formed, old David Lewis was appointed Surveyor of the road from his place south of Birdwood to Lynch's Ferry; at that point the Rivanna was crossed, instead of as now at the Free Bridge. This road must have intersected the Three Notched Road some distance west of Charlottesville, the existence of which at that time had not entered the thought even of the most sagacious. The hill at the old Craven place was in all probability always ascended where it is at present. The trade of the upper part of the county, and the adjacent sec- tions of the Valley, being then carried on with Fredericks- burg, both of these roads, and the Three Notched also as far as the fork at Everettsville, possessed in common the name of the Fredericksburg Road. In early times the Barbours- ville Road was continued down the river on the eastern side, and probably ran across the hills through the Haxall and Pantops plantations to the Secretary's Ford.
When the Court House was removed to Charlottesville, it of course became the centre of the county roads. The Three Notched Road running along its main street, afforded a ready approach both from the east and the west. One out- let towards the north was the Barboursville Road by way of Lynch's Ferry. Another was by a connection with the Buck Mountain Road at David Wood's old place, which was at or near the late Colonel Bowcock's. The road making this connection left the west end of High Street, ran to the foot of the hill near Clay Michie's, thence over Meadow Creek past the place recently occupied by the late Harvey Hull, and crossed the south fork of the Rivanna at Carr's old Ford on the Carrsbrook plantation. Shortly after another road was opened, branching from the last mentioned north of Harvey Hull's, crossing the south fork at the Broad Mossing Ford, and continuing thence to the Burnt Mills.
The Barracks Road was laid out during the Revolution, and has since been a noted way, though much deflected from its original course. It started from the west end of High —5
66 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
Street, ran on the highland south of the ravine crossed by the present road near Kellytown — remains of the stone fences lining it can still be seen — passed over Preston Heights not far from the mansions of Colonel Preston and General Rosser, forking on the summit with the road to Carr's Ford, continued past Colonel Duke's and the colored settlement of Georgetown to the ridge east of Ivy Creek, and descended to the ford of the creek past the old Ivy Creek Church. Near town a branch of the Barracks road diverged from its main course on the eastern slope of Preston Heights, and ran into the Three Notched Road not far from the Junction Depot. The present location of the Barracks Road immediately west of Charlottesville, was fixed about the beginning of the Cen- tury. A contention respecting it arose between Isaac Miller and John Carr, Clerk of the District Court, owners of the adjoining lands. After several views and reports on the subject, it was finally determined according to the ideas of Mr. Miller, whose residence at the time was either at Rose Valley, or near the house of Mason Gordon.
The course of the road from Brown's Gap was always much the same as it is at present. It crossed Mechum's River where it does now, coming down through the rocky defile on the west, then known as the Narrow Passage. After passing Ivy Creek, it turned southeast and ran over to the Three Notched Road — passing in its way the old D. S. Church — entering it where the old Terrell, or Lewis's, Ordinary stood, the location of which must have been near the site of Jesse Lewis's blacksmith shop. This road went for many years by the name of Rodes's Road. The connecting link between Rodes's and the Barracks Roads was made about the first of the century. It wound round Still House Mountain as it does now, and then turned south and continued down the ravine in which the outflow of what was called Wade's Spring was carried off. The old Poor House was built immediately upon this road. Somewhat later Governor Nicholas petitioned for the opening of a road from the D. S. Church to his plantation on the Rivanna, the present Carrs- brook ; but it does not appear that anything was ever done.
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 67
The road tbat crosses the river at Rea's Ford was opened about the close of the last century. The people of the north- west section of the county petitioned for a more convenient way to the courthouse. It was decided after several views, that a new road should start at Fretwell's Store, which was at or near Free Union, cross at Rea's Ford, fall into the Barracks Road and continue with it to the top of the ridge east of Ivy Creek, and there branching off run to Meadow Creek at the plantation of Bernard Carter, now F. B. Moran's, uniting at that point with the road from Carr's Ford.
The Richard Woods, or Dick Woods Road, as it was fre- quently called, is one of the oldest in the county. It diverged from the Three Notched just west of the D. S., passed Richard Woods' place at the mouth of Taylor's Gap to the little stream called Pounding Branch, crossed Mechum's river at the Miller School, and continued thence to Rockfish Gap. The place of Pounding Branch went in early times by the name of Little D. S. A tanyard was located there, which at first was named Simpson's, and afterwards Grayson's. Near that point the road turned off, described in old deeds as the road to Amherst C. H., the same that stills exists, run- ning through Batesville, and passing the Nelson line at what was formerly known as Harlow's Tavern on Lynch's Creek. Tradition relates that Richard Woods, in laying out the road called by his name, followed a well marked buffalo trail, and the fact of its being established by those sagacious engineers of nature accounts for the gentle grade for which it has been distinguished. It seems that the road through Israel's Gap was not made till near the end of the last century. At that time William Woods, Surveyor Billy, was summoned by the County Court to show cause why he had not opened a road from Israel's Gap into the Richard Woods Road.
The outlets from Charlottesville to the south were mainly the same as now exist. The road by which the people of Fluvanna south of the Rivanna reached the county seat, passed through Monticello Gap, then called the Thorough- fare, crossed Moore's Creek where it does now, and joined the Three Notched Road at the top of the hill near the junc-
68 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
tion of the macadamized road recently made by Mr. Brennan ; for the Three Notched Road then came from the Secretary's Ford along the ridge now followed by the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad, or over the low grounds of Moore's Creek in the rear of the Woolen Mills. The road from town to Carter's Bridge has always pursued the present route. It was for- merly described as passing by a place, well known as the Colts' Pasture, and the Plum Orchard Branch of Biscuit Run. The old Lynchburg Road has been in use from the first settlement of the town. It commenced at the foot of Vinegar Hill, reached the top of the Ridge beyond the Dry Bridge, and continued along its crest to the branch at its south end, then called Haggard's, and afterwards West's Saw Mill Run. It crossed the north fork of Hardware where it does at pres- ent, the place long known as Old's Forge, turned around the end of Gay's Mountain past Andrew Hart's Store, and cross- ing Jumping Branch and the south fork of Hardware as at present, united with the present Lynchburg Road at the end of Persimmon Mountain a short distance north of Covesville. Near town it went by the name of Haggard's Road, from a Nathaniel Haggard, who owned the land on its course from the end of the Ridge to Moore's Creek. In those days the present Lynchburg Road was a mere farm road bearing the name of Wheeler's, from a family who lived at the head of Moore's Creek.
The Secretary's Road has frequent mention in the early records. It set out from Carter's Mill on the north fork of Hardware, shortly above its union with the south fork, ran on the north side of that river to Woodridge, and thence pursued the watershed between it and the Rivanna to Bremo on the James. From its lower terminus it was sometimes called the Bremo, corrupted to Brimmer, Road. Near Wood- ridge the Martin King Road branched from it, crossing the Rivanna at Union Mills, and thence proceeding to Louisa. The road which pas.ses over the Green Mountain west of Porter's Precinct was established at an early date. For many years it was known as the Irish Road, as far as can be ascertained from a man name James Ireland, who was a patentee of land in that neighborhood.
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 69
The first turnpike in the county was built in 1806. It crossed the Blue Ridge at Brown's Gap, descended Brown's Cove, and joined the Three Notched Road at Mechum's Depot. It was made and owned by William Jarman and Brightberry Brown. It received a formal acceptance by inspectors appointed by the County Court, though the tolls were taken by the owners. In 1819 Jarman's share was sold by James Jarman to Ira Harris; and in 1867 the title as individual property was relinquished, and it lapsed into an ordinary road of the county. It was known as Brown's Turnpike.
About 1830, a few years before and after, a number of turnpikes were undertaken. The first was the Staunton and James River, having a charter of incorporation, and extend- ing from the place first named to Scottsville. It crossed the Ridge at Rockfish Gap, and ran through Batesville and Israel's Gap, following for the most part the course of old roads. As far back as 1790 a lottery was authorized by the Legislature, to be managed by Francis Walker, William Clark, Nicholas Lewis, John Breckinridge, George Divers, William D. Meriwether, Charles Irving and Isaac Davis, to raise not exceeding four hundred pounds for the purpose of cutting a road from Rockfish Gap to Nicholas's and Scott's Landings; what was accomplished in pursuance of this act is not known. The Staunton and James River Turnpike was for a number of years the route of a heavy transporta- tion, passing from the Valley to connect with the James River and Kanawha Canal. Later, when plank roads be- came the fashion of the day, it was converted into a Plank Road Company. Under its auspices some alterations were made in the grades, particularly avoiding the hills between Kidd's Mill and North Garden, and between Hart's and Garland's Stores, and an inconsiderable portion near Hughes's Shop was covered with plank; but the coming of the railroads, and the temporary nature of the construction, destroyed the public interest in its maintenance. The build- ing and support of good roads over which the produce of the farm is to be hauled, and rapid and comfortable transit to
70 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
be enjoj'ed, constitute a lesson the people have yet to learn. The Staunton and James River Turnpike was abandoned in 1867, and taken back by the county as a common road.
The next was the Blue Ridge and Rivanna River Turn- pike, which ran from Meriwether's Bridge on the Rivanna to the Turnpike last mentioned at Brooksville. Its construc- tion occasioned the laying out of the straight road from the Woolen Mills to the east end of Market Street. Not many years before, Mrs. Mary Lewis, of the Farm, petitioned for a more convenient approach from her residence to Charlottes- ville, as previously her only way lay directly south to the Three Notched Road. Opie Norris was the Secretary and Treasurer of this Turnpike, and advertised for bids for its construction. Its route west of town mainly coin- cided with the Three Notched Road to Mechum's River, and generally with the old road from that point to its termination. Toll gates were erected and for some years its business was regularly transacted. The first gate west of town was immediately opposite the large oak tree on Jesse Lewis's place, under which General Washington is said once to have lunched, and which was blown down by a violent storm in September 1896 ; its keeper was Patrick Quinn. In 1857 the road was purchased by the county for fifteen hun- dred dollars, John Wood, Jr. being appointed to receive the purchase money for distribution among the stockholders. When this Turnpike was first projected, an urgent petition was presented to the Legislature for the establishment of a similar one from Meriwether's Bridge to Boyd's Tavern, but nothing further was ever effected.
About the same time the present Lynchburg Road was opened. The Legislature passed an act, granting permis- sion to the counties of Amherst, Nelson and Albemarle, to co-operate in the construction of a road from Lynchburg to Charlottesville, each county to make the road within its own bounds. Amht-rst declined to engage in the work, but at the request of the Albemarle Court reconsidered its action, and decided to join forces with the other counties. John Pryor surveyed the route, and William Garland made the roadbed
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 71
in Albemarle. Advantage was taken of country roads already existing, but the line was then first run by way of the old Sud- darth Mill, and the Cross Roads, and on the old Wheeler Road down Moore's Creek, instead of the east side of Dud- ley's Mountain.
The Harrisonburg and Charlottesville Turnpike was laid out shortly after. Col. T. J. Randolph, Alexander Garrett and Achilles Broadhead, Surveyor of the county, were ap- pointed to determine its course, Dr. Gilly M. Lewis recording his protest against its construction. It crossed the Blue Ridge at Swift Run Gap, entered the county at Nortonsville, fell into the Buck Mountain Road west of Earlysville, ran from Colonel Bowcock's to Rio Mills, ascended the hill south of the river by the present easy grade, and continued by way of Rio Station and Cochran's Mill to town.
Many efforts were put forth about the same time to build a turnpike from Scottsville to Rock Spring in Nelson, and thence to the head waters of Rockfish River ; but the project was never consummated.
The first bridges, built within the present county, were undoubtedly those over the main Hardware at Carter's Bridge, and over its north fork, just above its junction with the south fork. That river was the largest stream between the old Court House and the greater part of the northern sec- tion of the county ; and the north fork, besides being crossed by one of the great highways to the county seat, was passed by many to reach Carter's Mill, one of the first erected in the newly-settled country. Owing to the loss of the records, no account exists of the original building of these bridges ; but when rebuilt towards the close of the last century, it is recited that there had been one — and in all likelihood more than one — before, at each of those places. Both have since been often renewed, not so much because of use and decay, as because of the freshets, which from time to time have swept down from the mountains with terrible violence.
A great flood in James River and its branches occurred in 1771, so remarkable for its enormous and wide-spread destruction as to become the special occasion of action by the
72 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
Legislature that year; and in an application Mr. Jefferson made for a writ of ad quod dainnuin in order to erect his mill at Shadwell in 1795, he states that the former one had been carried off by the flood of 1771. It is presumable the Hard- ware bridges met the same fate. Certainly Carter's Bridge was rebuilt in the years 1795, 1800, 1812, 1859, and 1876. Inasmuch as these improvements are one of the chief signs of civilization, and are so indispensable to the convenience and prosperity of communities, experience teaches that it is true economy to build them substantially, and put them beyond the reach of all contingencies, in the first instance. In such cases it is better to spend more once, than less often.
The first bridge over Moore's Creek was erected in 1798, and it would seem its location was on the old Lynchburg Road. In 1801 another was built over the same stream, apparently on the Monticello Road. As far as appears, there was no structure of the kind near Meriwether's Mill, now Hartman's, till 1848.
The same Legislature which established the town of Char- lottesville, passed an act authorizing any person to erect a bridge over the Rivanna near that town, and as a remunera- tion allowing him to take tolls, the reason assigned being that the river was often rendered impassable by freshets ; but no one availed himself of the permission. For many years the passage of the stream was made either at the Secretary's Ford, or near the Free Bridge by what was known according to the amount of water as Moore's Ford, or Lewis's Ferry. It was not until 1801 that the County Court took the matter in hand. They then passed an order that George Divers, Thomas M. Randolph, John Watson, Nimrod Bramham, Josluia Key and Achilles Douglass should let the erection of a bridge at the latter point, the cost not to exceed two thou- sand dollars. Against this action Thomas Garth entered his protest. Since that time it has l)een rebuilt in 1831, 1846, 1865 and 1870. It stood safe in the flood of 1877, but the causeway on the western side with its stone retaining walls was washed away, and the wooden approach on trestles which still remains, was then constructed.
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 73
A bridge was built at the Woolen Mills in 1825 by Wil- liam H. Meriwether. Being on the line of the Three Notched Road, the main thoroughfare through the county, it was at once a great convenience and a desirable means of safet}'. Some four or five years before in the month of May, a wagon and six horses belonging to a Mr. Collins, of Augusta County, in attempting to cross the river at the Secretary's Ford on their return from Richmond, were swept down and lost, the driver making his escape with the greatest difficulty. It was most likely in consequence of this disaster, and the constant threatening of others, that Col. T. J. Randolph soon after sought the establishment of a ferry at that point. Meriwether's Bridge obviated such perils, and proved a sig- nal benefit to the community for something like twenty years. In 1843 the County Court was compelled to make some pro- vision b3^ reason of the Free Bridge having been destroyed, and deliberated whether to rebuild, or purchase the Meri- wether Bridge. They adopted the former alternative. In the course of a year or two Meriwether sold his bridge to Thomas Farish, and shortly after it was swept away by a flood.
The bridge over the south fork of the Rivanna near Rio Mills was first erected in 1836, Tho^e Mills had a few years before been built by William H. Meriwether, and in 1833 the Harrisonburg Turnpike had been located to cross the river at that place. These were beyond question the constraining reasons for the erection of the bridge. Previously the stream had been passed from time immemorial at two fords near by, one called Carr's Ford, and the other the Island Ford. Rio Bridge has been built twice since, in 1860 and 1865. The latter year G. F. Thompson and M. S. Gleason obtained the contract for replacing it for nineteen hundred dollars, and the Free Bridge also for twenty-six hundred and sixty.
The first bridge across the Rockfish at Howardsville seems to have been erected in 1839. Prior to that time the river had been crossed at the neighboring fords.
74 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
CHAPTER IV.
The County Court continued to supervise the affairs, and guard the interests, committed to its trust. In 1783 James Stowers for stealing a horse from Joseph Chapman was examined and sent on to Richmond, where at that time all felonies were tried. John Mullins, son of William, was acquitted of burglary, but sent on for stealing leather from the tan vats of John Watson, of Hightop. Crimes of every class perpetrated by negroes, were entirely under the juris- diction of this Court. Sam, a slave of James Kerr, for attempting to assault a daughter of David Humphreys, was punished with thirty-nine lashes; the same day however he was cleared of stealing fifty pounds in specie from his mas- ter's desk. Ben, a slave of Charles Rodes, was burnt in the hand for poisoning James, a slave of Thomas Smith, under pretence of giving him medicine.
Not only did it punish evil doers, but it interposed in behalf of the weak and oppressed. Daniel Dunavan, a serv- ant of James Lewis, probably a redemptioner, made complaint that his master furnished him with insuffi- cient food and raiment. It promptly required security that suitable provision should be made in future. George Bruce, the jailor, charged Richard Woods with compelling his boy Tom, an orphan child, to wear a collar; it at once ordered the degrading appendage to be removed. It especially exer- cised a judicious care over apprentices, protecting them from improper treatment, yet refusing to lend an ear to groundless representations, Samuel Burch was summoned to show cause why his apprentice, Abraham Gaulding, should not be discharged from his service, and William D. Hunt why Fielding and William Starke should not have their bonds cancelled. When James Robinson sought to obtain the release of his sons Matthew and Moses as appren- tices of Bartlett Dedman, it decided there was no just reason
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 75
for interference in ;he case. In like manner Newberrj', son of Thomas Stockton, was continued under the charge of his master, Nathaniel Landcraft.
The Court likewise vindicated its own dignity, and strictly quelled the bold spirit of insubordination that sometimes displayed itself. Martin Marshall for profane swearing in open court was fined five shillings, and William Thurmond for the same offence committed twice was fined and placed under bonds. Daniel Thacker was bound over for making an affray, and breaking the peace in the presence of the court. A fine of eight dollars was imposed on William Alcock for refusing in open court to serve as a juror.
The first instance of capital punishment that appears in the records, occurred at the beginning of the century. Aaron, a slave of Hugh Rice Morris, for breaking into the store of Philip Moore, and stealing seven sides of leather, was condemned to be hanged on the second Friday of February, 1801. Though this punishment seems severe, yet forcibly entering any building on the curtilage, especially at night, was always viewed with jealous sternness. Aaron too was an old offender, having been previously convicted and punished for breaking into the lumber room ot Andrew Hart. In this case he had the advantage of being defended, the Court appointing James Brooks as his counsel.
An event of pathetic and tragical interest happened some- time in 1802 or 1803 ; and it is specially remarkable, as it fur- nished the only case in which a white man has ever been judicially hanged in the history of the county. James Hop- kins was the son of Dr. Arthur Hopkins, who was one of the earliest and largest landholders in Albemarle. He was a man of fine education and considerable wealth. Making choice of his father's profession, he travelled abroad and studied medicine in the University of Edinburgh. On his return to this country, he settled in what is now Nelson County under the shadow of Sugar I^oaf Mountain, where for many years he was occupied with an extensive practice. He was possessed not only of great learning, but also of great piety. He had an only child, a daughter, who was married
76 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
to a Captain Richard Pollard. One evening while the doctor was kneeling in the act of conducting family worship, he was shot through a window of the room, and died in the course of an hour. After a careful measurement of tracks made in the snow by the shoes of the guilty person, a man named Lewis McWane was arrested for the crime, examined by the Amherst County Court, and sent on for trial in the District Court of Charlottesville. In due time he was con- victed and executed at that place. On the scaffold he denied having performed the deed. He avowed that he had been employed by Pollard to commit the murder, and had approached the window of the house for that purpose, but when he saw the old man kneeling in prayer, his heart failed him, and he returned to Pollard a short distance off, and de- clared he could not perpetrate the act ; that Pollard, after forc- ing him to exchange shoes, went to the window and shot his father-in-law with his own hand ; and that his motive in desir- ing his death was to prevent him from making a will, having in some way formed the impression that he was to be excluded from all interest and control in the estate. On the ground of this statement Pollard was arrested and tried, but in the absence of all other testimony was acquitted ; yet the belief was widely prevalent that McWane's declaration was true. Pollard lived to a great age, but never by word or act in the slightest degree betrayed his guilt. His purpose, if he had formed it, was in vain. Dr. Hopkins had already made his will. He provided for the gradual emancipation of his slaves, and devised his estate to his daughter, and his grandson. Dr. Arthur Pollard, requiring the name of the latter to be changed to Hopkins, which was duly effected by the County Court of Amherst.
About this time Dr. John T. Gilmer was placed under bonds for an alleged offence in inoculating for smallpox. Legislation on this subject had been enacted in Virginia. Rules had been prescribed for its regulation, and the superin- tendence of it committed to the County Courts. The milder and safer mode of preventing the disease by vaccination had not yet been fully developed. The interest of Dr. Gilmer in
HISTORY OF AI.BEMARLE 77
the matter was so great, that he had established a hospital for the special treatment of those who sought exemption from the dreaded malady. The immediate cause of his being summoned before the Court was the occurrence of a fatal case, after the operation had been performed. A panic ensued, and complaint was made against the philanthropic leech. The sympathies of the Court, as well as of all enlightened men, must have been exerted in his favor; for he was required to give bond only for three months "for his good behavior, especially in not alarming the neighborhood in which his hospital is established, unless he first obtain the consent of the citizens." The doctor's residence — and pre- sumptively, his hospital — was at Edgemont, on the Barbours- ville Road.
An interesting point of law came before the Court in the early part of the century. Mrs. Elizabeth Henderson, widow of Bennett Henderson, on whose land the town of Milton was laid out, sued out a writ of dower against those who had purchased lots within its limits. The decision was that the widow was barred by the Act of Assembly authorizing the establishment of the town, vesting its lands in trustees, and giving them power to sell. The case was appealed to the District Court. What its decision was, cannot be known, as its records have disappeared ; but it can hardly be supposed the lower court was not sustained. Mrs. Henderson's coun- sel was George Poindexter, who was a Louisa man, settled for a time in Milton, removed to Mississippi while it was a Territory, became successively Judge, Aide to Jackson at the battle of New Orleans, Representative in Congress, Gov- ernor, United States Senator, and died in 1853.
President Monroe was one of the magistrates of the county, as Mr. Jefferson also was. When Jeflerson was appointed cannot be definitely known, as no record of the event exists. From his prominence, even while a student of law, it may be conjectured he received the appointment shortly after his attaining his majority, in 1764 or 1765. It does not appear that he ever sat upon the bench. The only official act he ever performed as Justice of the Peace apparent in the records,
78 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
was taking the acknowledgment of Mrs. Elizabeth Eppes in 1777 to a deed of her husband and herself, conveying three thousand acres of land on Green Mountain to John Coles ; this acknowledgment, and the memorial of respect entered in the minutes of the court at his death, are the only indica- tions the records show, that he ever was a magistrate. The truth is, that until his Presidential term expired, he was comparatively speaking rarely at home. The same thing is largely true of Mr. Monroe. He was frequently absent on public business. But when at home he often attended court. The latter half of 1799, just before he became Governor of the State, he sat upon the bench regularly every month.
A feeling of regret may naturally be indulged, that the old County Court system has passed away. It was a peculiar feature in the history of Virginia from a very early period, and in many respects a most valuable institution. It is hard to conceive how justice could be administered in a less bur- densome form. In large measure the rights of the people were secured, and their convenience promoted, absolutely free of expense. It possessed a high degree of dignity, and was regarded by the community with sentiments of veneration and respect. Its members for the most part occupied the most reputable standing in society. They generally fulfilled the requirement of !the law, that they should be "able, honest and discreet." Their wealth placed them above temptations to corruption and rapacity, their integrity inspired general confidence, while their honorable character and gentleman- like bearing presented an example worthy of imitation, and were not without effect in imparting a chivalrous tone, and disseminating habits of politeness, among the public at large. And it may be affirmed with truth, that their cheap adminis- tration did not produce cheap results. Their work was usu- ally well done. They spared no pains in promoting the peace of their neighborhoods. If business was sometimes delayed by the pressure of private claims, perhaps on the whole it amounted to no more than the interruptions necessa- rily incident to all human affairs. Their official duties were often performed with no little trouble. Men of the highest
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 79
position would ride for miles across mountain ranges, and over almost impassable roads, to receive the acknowledg- ment of a poor neighbor's wife, whose infirmity or want of means prevented her from travelling to the county seat. Nor was there a failure in respect to their judicial decrees. Guided by their own intelligence and sound sense, and the aid of the Commonwealth's attorney, they attained substan- tial righteousness in their conclusions. Their decisions were not often reversed; and it happened more than once that they were sustained by the Court of Appeals against the counter- adjudications of such eminent jurists as Archibald Stuart and lyucas P. Thompson.
For some years after the Revolution, all persons charged with felony, were sent to Richmond for trial before the Gen- eral Court. To remedy this arrangement which was both in- convenient and expensive, a law was passed in 1788, forming judicial districts throughout the State, and appointing a court for each district. Three judges were to preside in each court, two of them to form a quorum. One of these districts com- prised the counties of Louisa, Fluvanna, Albemarle and Amherst, and its court was called the District Court of Char- lottesville. Who were its judges is not known, it records being lost. John Carr, son of Major Thomas Carr, was its Clerk. This Court was abolished in 1809, and the Circuit Superior Court of L,aw for the county was organized, with Archibald Stuart, of Staunton, as Judge, and John Carr as Clerk. Mr. Carr resigned in 1818, and Alexander Garrett was appointed in his stead. During this time the Court of Chancery having jurisdiction of such cases arising in this county, was held in Staunton. In 1830 the Circuit Superior Court was invested with the jurisdiction of all cases, both of Law and Chancery, and this scheme continues to the present day. In that year Judge Stuart was appointed to the bench of the Court of Appeals, and was succeeded by Lucas P. Thompson, of Amherst. Judge Thompson continued in office until 1852, when he was promoted to the Court of Ap- peals, and was succeeded by Richard H. Field, of Culpeper. Judge Field sat for the last time in October 1864, and soon
80 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
after died. When the confusion consequent upon the war somewhat subsided, Egbert R.Watson was made Judge of the Circuit Court in 1866 by the United States military authorities. He was superseded in the beginning of 1869 by the appoint- ment of Henry Shackelford, of Culpeper, who held the office until his death in 1880, when Daniel A. Grimsley, of Cul- peper, was chosen. In 1882 he gave place to George P. Hughes, of Goochland, until 1886, when he was again elected, and continues to occupy the position at the present time.
Before the Constitution of 1850 the Circuit Judges had the appointment of the Attorneys for the Commonwealth practising in their courts. When Judge Stuart took his seat on the Albemarle bench in 1809, he selected Dabney Carr to represent the State. Upon Mr. Carr's resignation in 1811, he appointed John Howe Peyton, of Staunton, who held the office until 1839 when he resigned. Thereupon Judge Thompson appointed Thomas J. Michie, of Staunton, whose incumbency was terminated by the provisions of the new Constitution. Under those provisions the office became elective, and the person who filled it practised in all the courts alike.
Nothing is known concerning the first building occupied as a courthouse, except that it was erected by Samuel Scott on the land of his brother Daniel, near Scottsville. It afforded accommodation to those transacting the public business for seventeen years, when the removal to Charlottesville took place. Nor does any record remain, giving an account of the building of the first courthouse at the new county seat. The edifice erected however answered the purpose of a hall of justice for a little more than forty years. It must have had some pretension to architectural display in the shape of an ornamental cover to its entrance, as we learn that in 1800 Richard Thurmond was bound over for "a fray in the portico of the courthouse." This courthouse, and the early jails, were evidently of slight and temporary construction; with the course of years they required almost continual repairs. The first jail appears to have been built by William Terrell, and the second by Henry Gambell about the close of the
HISTORY OF ALBEMARI^E 81
Revolutionarj'^ War. Trouble was encountered in settling with the latter contractor, on account of the imperfect manner in which his work was done. In 1785 a stone prison was built, sixteen feet by sixteen, and two stories in height, and lasted till 1798. A new jail was then erected, the cost of which was a thousand pounds, or three thousand, three hun- dred and thirty-three dollars. Thomas Whitlow was the builder. This structure continued in use, with repairs from time to time — particularly in 1846, when three thousand dollars were expended in its improvement — until the present jail was built in 1876.
The court square was first enclosed in 1792. Thomas Bell, James Kerr and Thomas Garth were directed to have a rail- ing put up at a distance of not more than forty -five feet from the courthouse. A large space was consequently left as open ground. The subject of selling a part of this unoccu- pied space was seriously agitated. In 1801 the justices of the county were specially convened to deliberate in regard to the matter; fortunately, after due consideration they came to the conclusion, that it was inexpedient that any part of the public grounds should be sold.
In 1803 it was determined that a new courthouse was nec- essary. George Divers, William D. Meriwether and Isaac Miller were appointed to draw a plan for the edifice, and Messrs, Divers, Miller, Thomas Garth, William Wardlaw and Thomas C. Fletcher v/ere directed to solicit bids for its erection, the cost not to exceed five thousand dollars. The building committee was also directed, when the new house was finished, to remove the old one, together with the rul)- bish incident to the work. From this circumstance it is inferred, that the old building was located not far from the site of the present Clerk's Office. The house then erected is substantially the one which now exists. Iron bars were placed in the office windows in 1807. The cupola was re- paired in 1815. After a consultation to devise some means of protecting the public buildings from fire, the Court ordered lightning rods to be put up on the courthouse; this was done —6
82 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
in 1818. These safeguards then went by the name of Frank- lins. James Leitch furnished the iron necessary for fifty dollars, and Jacob Wimer did the work for seventy-five. The building was covered with tin in 1825. In 1849 an inquiry was made as to the propriety of embellishing the front with a porch and pillars, but was attended with no result until ten years after. At that time a contract was entered into with George W. Spooner to construct a front addition designed by William A. Pratt, a formerProctor of the University, he giving bond for the faithful performance of the work in the sum of nine thousand four hundred dollars. This addition was flanked with towers and crowned with gables. While this work was in progress, the Court held its sessions in the old Town Hall. After the war the gables and towers were re- moved, and the pediment with its supporting pillars, as they appear at present, was erected by Mr. Spooner. These improvements were deemed sufficient until the recent altera- tions in 1897.
At the organization of the county, the pillory, stocks and whipping post were regarded as necessary accompaniments of the courthouse, and court proceedings. In 1807 order was given to repair these important means of correction. In process of time they seem to have disappeared by natural decay. In 1820 they were all directed to be restored in the public square. Subsequent to that period the first two re- ceive no further mention, but James lyobban and Andrew Brown were appointed to select a place for the whipping post as late as 1857.
In 1811 a brick and stone wall was ordered to be erected on the Square forty-five feet from the courthouse. John Jor- dan contracted to perform the work. In 1816 the trustees of the town were allowed to sink a well on the Square, exterior to the wall. In 1824 V. W. Southall obtained permission to buihl an office on the southeast corner of the Square, and F. B. Dyer one on the southwest corner. At the same time an office was directed to be built on the northeast corner for the use of the County Clerk's assistant, and William H. Meri- wether was allowed to ])uild one adjoining it on the west;
HISTORY OF ALBEMAKLE 83
but a month or two after the entire order was rescinded. The next year a commission, consisting of Joseph Coffman, John M. Perry, John Winn, Alexander Garrett, Micajah Woods and Opie Norris, was directed to have two offices erected on the northeast corner of the Square for the Commonwealth's Attorney and the Sheriff, the brick wall taken down, the front yard paved with the materials, and a light railing placed around the Square. These two oflBces were occupied in 1830 by V. W. Southall and T. W. Gilmer at a rent of fifty dollars. In 1841 permission was again given for the erection of offices on the front corners of the Square ; but it was evidently withdrawn, though no notice of the counter- manding order appears. The same year the Charlottesville I^yceum had leave to hold their meetings in the courthouse. Authority was given in 1855 to Messrs. Strange and Jones, to ring the courthouse bell for the uses of their school, but it was soon after recalled.
In 1847 in answer perhaps to some ebullition of public spirit, James W. Saunders, John R. Jones and William A. Bibb were directed to enclose and improve the public square, provided the expense of the work was borne by private sub- scription. What was effected in pursuance of this movement is not known. Two years later Allen B. Magruder and W. T. Early asked leave to build offices on the Square, and the petition was so far taken into consideration that Malcolm F. Crawford and Thomas Wood were appointed to examine and report on the subject. In 1855 the town was granted liberty to erect an engine house on the west side of the Square, in a line with which Drury Wood and W. T. Early were allowed to build offices on the east side. The next year an order was passed, directing the enclosing and paving of the Square according to a plan submitted by William S. Dabney ; and it was no doubt in agreement with the provisions of this plan, that shortly after the stone wall and iron railing now existing were ordered to be erected, not to exceed the cost of fifteen hundred dollars.
Not long after the beginning of the century an effort was made to secure the transportation of the produce of the
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county by water. The need of a cheaper and more expedi- tious mode of reaching a market had long been felt. Farmers had been obliged to move their crops, first to Fredericksburg, and then to Richmond, by wagons; and the goods of mer- chants had been conveyed to their stores by the same slow and expensive process The course of James River was then unobstructed, and the question arose whether the Rivanna might not be rendered useful for the purposes of commerce. The scheme was attempted of turning to account these water courses, which nature had placed at the door to be outlets of such admirable convenience. The Rivanna Navigation Com- pany was formed, and a charter procured. In 1810 George Divers, Williams D. Meriwether, Nimrod Bramham, John Kelly and Dabney Minor were its Directors, and Peter Minor its Treasurer. The original methods of procedure were simple enough. They aimed to keep the channel of the river clear of snags and hammocks, and to provide flat- bottomed boats called batteaux, for the carriage of freight. Advantage was taken of freshets to load the boats, and run them down, while the stream was at high water mark. As at such times the water rushed with the speed of a torrent, the navigation was often dangerous; but the management of the boats became a special business, and the men employed acquired an intelligence and skill which were seldom baffled by accidents, A family named Craddock bore for many years a high reputation as adroit and successful watermen. In 1827 books were opened for an enlarged subscription of stock, and eleven hundred and fifteen shares were taken at fifty dollars a share. A list of the subscribers remains on record in Deed Book Twenty-Seven. This money was raised to improve still further the channel of the river. The improvement consisted in the erection of dams at shoal places, to increase the depth of water, and thus secure slack water navigation, locks being provided to raise or lower the boats at the different levels. Some of the locks were handsomely faced with hewn stone, and built in a substantial manner. Besides the dams located in Fluvanna, there was one erected at Milton, three at Shadwell, one at the Woolen Mills, one
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 85
at the Three Islands, two at the Broad Mossing Ford, and two at Rio Mills. It was no doubt in preparation for this effort, that commissioners were appointed by the County Court in 182 5 to consider the practicability of clearing out the south fork from the mouth of Ivy Creek to the "Little River." The court also in 1841 directed an examination of the improvements on the south fork with the view of allowing additional tolls. Some still living remember boats bound for the James River Canal at Columbia, which carried from eighty to a hundred barrels of flour, and fiom forty to fifty hogsheads of tobacco. The value of this work was entirely destroyed by the advent of the railroads ; yet it seemed hard to abandon an enterprise, on which so much had been expended, and from which such great benefits had been derived. Since the war another attempt was made to renew its usefulness. Two dams were constructed, one above Milton, and the other above Shadwell ; but both being damaged by sweeping floods, the whole matter has been finally dropped. The early settlers of Albemarle amidst all the distracting labors of founding new homes, set no small value on the advantages of education. Both those who pushed their way up from the tidewater section, and the Scotch Irish element who came over from the Valley, made it their care to build the schoolhouse. Soon after the formation of the county. Rev. James Maury, Rector of Fredericksville parish, opened a classical school on the borders of Albemarle and Louisa, which he superintended for many years with eminent success. In this nursery of learning Mr. Jefferson received in part his mental training. At the same period Rev. Samuel Black, whose home was on Mechum's River below the Miller School, was also engaged in teaching. Rev. Matthew Maury, son of James, succeeded his father in the school as well as in the parish. In fact, it was generally the case that ministers of the gospel, whose salaries were small, joined the work of instruction to their regular professional duties. In the early deeds, it is not uncommon to find in the description of places sold, the incidental mention of the schoolhouse, or the school- house spring. It was also customary in setting forth the
86 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
parties to deeds, to state their residence and occupation, a matter of no slight importance in a historical point of view. We learn in this way that about 1760 a James Forbes, who bought land on the head of Ivy Creek, was a schoolmaster, and that William Coursey, Jr., who lived in the northern part of the county, pursued the same vocation. David Rodes, who resided on Moorman's River, mentions in some notes still remaining, patronizing from 1766 to 1768, the schools of Charles Lambert, William Coleman and William Harris.
In consequence of Mr. Jefferson's repeated suggestions, seconded by the active efforts of Joseph Cabell in the Legis- lature, a State law was passed in 1818 in which it was pro- vided, that Commissioners should be appointed in every county, not less than five, nor more than fifteen in number, who should give attention to the children of families unable to bear the expense of their education. These appointments were made in Albemarle every three years for a considerable time. Those who constituted the first commission were Martin Dawson, James Clark, Francis Carr, John Goss, Thomas Wood, James Jarman, John A. Michie, Isaac A. Coles, William Harris, Allen Dawson, William Woods, Samuel L. Hart, Charles Yancey, Christopher Hudson, and Henry T. Harris.
In the early part of the century John Robertson, a native of Scotland, and father of Judge W. J. Robertson, taught a classical school on the east side of the South West Mountain. His library, a catalogue of which is recorded in Will Book No. Seven, contained a more complete set of the Greek and Latin authors than perhaps could be found in any other private collection in the State. The first numbers of the Central Gazette supply some information in regard to the educational facilities of the county during the decade of 1820. In that year was commenced the Charlottesville Female Seminary, the site of which was what is now the Leterman lot, corner of High and Third Streets. Its first Principal was a Mrs. George. It was subsequently presided over by Mr. and Mrs. Littleford, of Baltimore, Mrs. G. K. Taylor, and Mrs. Kgan. Mr. Gerard K. Stuck, who was accredited
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 87
by most flattering: testimonials, taught the Charlottesville Academy, desio^ned for boys. Allen Dawson had a school, first at his farm on the Scottsville Road, then at his house on Main Street, west of Third, and still later at a school- house that once stood on J. W. Marshall's lot on Park Street. In this house Thomas Woodson taught some years later. The small brick near the east end of Main Street, now occupied bj^ William Durrett, accommodated suc- cessively the schools of George Carr, Thomas W. Maury and Rev. Mr. Hatch. Mr. Carr afterwards taught in con- nection with Christopher Hornsey, and Mr. Maury removed his school to his residence west of the Universit}', now owned by Samuel Smerson. Mrs. Charles Spencer gave instruc- tion to small children on the south side of Main Street at the foot of Vinegar Hill, and to the same class of pupils Mrs. Ebenezer Watts devoted her labors at a subsequent period. Mrs. Rebecca Estes had a school for young ladies in the large brick on the top of Vinegar Hill. About 1829 Mrs. Blaetterman opened an academy for young ladies in the large brick, south of where the lyynchburg Road passes under the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad. S. Overton Minor taught at the Farm, and later in the basement of the old Baptist Church. In the old brick next east of the Opera House on West Main Street, a classical school was conducted by Bar- tholomew Egan and Victor Ferrow. William A. Bowen taught near Ivy Depot, holding his examinations in Moun- tain Plains Church, and afterwards near Batesville, making a similar use of Mount Ed Church. Thornton Rogers had a classical academy at his place at Keswick. Joseph Mills gave instruction near Earlysville, and William J. Wilkerson two miles west of Michie's old Tavern. Mason Frizzell, a graduate of Williams College, had charge of a school on Chestnut Ridge, and John Duggins of one near H. Martin's, presumably south of Covesville. T, L. Terrell was a teacher at James H. Terrell's on the east side of the South West Mountain. Samuel Harrison taught at Piney Grove. A school in Brown's Cove was instructed by William Brander, and a Female Seminary in the
88 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
same place by Miss Sarah P. Catlett. When Jonathan B. Carr retired from the practice of the law, he opened a school at his place, the Retreat, north of Dunlora. Rev. Ovid A. Kinsolving received part of his early education at Plain Dealing, the residence of Samuel Dyer.
During the next decade was built the house where Dr. William S. White taught for some years, now the Presbyte- rian Manse, and shortly after the brick at the corner of Maple and Seventh Streets was erected as a Female Seminary. Midway, first opened as a hotel under Louis A. Xaupi, became the seat of a flourishing academy taught by Duke and Powers — Alexander Duke and Pike Powers — and after- wards by Duke and SlayghterT— Alexander Duke and Charles Slaughter.
These were some of the places of instruction which existed at that time, and which for the most part might be styled high schools. In them were imparted the elements of a clas- sical education. They were the forerunners of those admirable preparatory seats of learning which arose in the next genera- tion, and still exist in living memory, those of Franklin Minor at Ridgeway, of Charles Minor at Brookhill, of Pro- fessor Gessner Harrison at Cocke's Tavern, of William Din- widdie at Greenwood, of Col. J. B. Strange on the Ridge at Charlottesville, and of Brown and Tebbs at Bloomfield ; and at a later period, those of Major Horace Jones in Char- lottesville, of the Wood Brothers at Cocke's Tavern, and of John R. Sampson at Pantops.
A project was conceived of establishing at or near Char- lottesville a large academy, to be organized and managed on the plan of the German Gymnasium. Its great design was to insure a more exact and thorough drill in the rudiments of learning, and thus afford a more adequate preparation for entrance into the University. In prosecution of this idea, a long prospectus was published in 1829, signed by a large Dumlier of the most eminent men in all sections of the State, but nothing tangible ever resulted. Things still seem to be shaping themselves more and more in agreement with the wonderful foresight of Mr. Jefferson, forming that gradation
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 89
which constituted the ideal of his mind, each step rising higher from the common school to the University, at which all the last and most finished results of every branch of learning could be obtained.
Jefferson well deserves the title of Father of the University of Virginia. The whole establishment was the outgrowth of his views upon education. These views occupied his mind while acting as one of the Revisors of the Laws of Virginia in 1776, were constantly revolved in his thoughts, and were from time to time expressed in legislative bills, and correspondence with his friends, until they finally assumed permanent form in the noble institution which is the chief ornament of Albemarle, and one of the chief orna- ments of the State. His fundamental maxim was, that the stability and happiness of the republic depended on the gen- eral diffusion of knowledge through the mass of the people ; hence the attainment of this object was perhaps more the dictate of his patriotism, than of his literary tastes. The instrumentality to be employed comprehended common schools, grammar schools or academies, and a university as the head of the system. An act containing these general ideas was prepared and presented to the General Assembly in 1779, but amidst the turmoil of the Revolution attracted but little attention. The same views were expressed in his Notes on Virginia, in which he proposed that William and Mary should be enlarged, and made to occupy the place of a university. In 1796 the Legislature passed an act which approached as near the attainment of free schools in V irginia , as was ever realized until after the war.
This act provided that a majority of the acting justices of each county should determine whether they should be estab- lished ; that in case they came to this conclusion, they should elect three officers called aldermen, who should divide their county into hundreds, in imitation of the political divisions of old English times; and that the people of each hundred should tax themselves for the erection of a school house in the most convenient place, and for the support of a teacher. According to Mr. Jefferson, the common schools
90 HISTORY OF ALBKMARLE
were to be wholly supported by local taxation, the acad- emy was to be assisted by the State, and the University was to receive a larger measure of State assistance, in con- junction with the benevolent contributions of the friends of education. But his conceptions were far in advance of his age. The magistrates were as little inclined as the peo- ple, to levy a special tax for general education. Although before the system was introduced by the present con- stitution, the counties and cities of the state were allowed by special enactment to adopt free schools for themselves, it is doubted whether a single county availed itself of the priv- ilege, and whether more than one or two cities were liberal minded enough to enter upon the work. A meeting of the magistrates of Albemarle was called to consider the subject in 1797, the year after the act referred to was passed, at which were present Francis Walker, Samuel Murrell, Rice Garland , Wilson C. Nicholas , George Divers, Bernard Brown, Thomas C. Fletcher and Thomas Bell. The decision at which they arrived was, "that no election of aldermen shall be held this year" — nor was any ever held thereafter. Under the law of 1818 which required not less than five nor more than fifteen Commissioners to be appointed in every county, the full number was appointed in this county. They dis- posed of the quota of the State Literary Fund apportioned to the county, and provided for free education as far as this means would allow. Children thus aided were admitted to the schools upon certificate from one of the magistrates. In 1849 a memorable debate on the question took place before the people of the county, and an election was held. Dr. William H. McGuffey, of the University, took the stump in behalf of free schools, and General William F. Gordon and Col. T. J. Randolph against them. By the popular vote it was decided, that the time for public schools had not yet come.
As early as 1 783 , just alter the Revolutionary War, a move - ment was begun to establish a grammar school in Albemarle. This appears from a letter of Mr. Jefferson, written the last day of that year. In it he narrates the efforts he had made
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 91
to secure a teacher, some literary character of the Irish nation, or some person from Scotland — "from that country we are sure of having sober, attentive men." A charter was ob- tained for the Albemarle Academy in 1803 ; but though trustees were elected, nothing further was accomplished. Mr. Jefferson was President of the United States, and had the affairs of the country on his hands; the mainspring was therefore wanting. In 1814 he was appointed a trustee. Agitation at once commenced, plans were devised, a site was pitched upon, the town of Charlottesville was selected. But the project was soon enlarged. Albemarle Academy grew into Central College. The Legislature made this change of name in 1816, and provided for the appointment by the Governor of six visitors, who should choose professors, and superintend the affairs of the new institution. The visitors were Thomas Jefferson, James Madison, James Monroe, Joseph C. Cabell, David Watson and John H. Cocke. The next year land was bought from John M. Perry, the present site of the University, and on October 6th, 1817, the corner stone of Central College was laid.
The design had received a start, and like the letting out of waters could not be stopped. Matters ripened fast. In February 1818, the Legislature enacted that the Governor should appoint Commissioners, one from each Senatorial district of the State, who should meet in the month of August in that year at a tavern in Rockfish Gap on the Blue Ridge, and settle the site for a university, a plan for its construction, the sciences to be taught, the number of professors, and a legislative bill for organizing and managing the institution. That body was appointed, and consisted of the following gentlemen: Thomas Jefferson, James Madison, Spencer Roane, Creed Taylor, Peter Randolph, William Brocken- brough, Archibald Rutherford, Henry E. Watkins, Armis- tead T. Mason, Hugh Holmes, John G. Jackson, William H. Cabell, Nathaniel H. Claiborne, William A. E. Dade, Wil- liam Jones, James Breckinridge, Philip C. Pendleton, Archi- bald Stuart, Thomas Wilson, M. C. Taylor, Philip Slaughter, John Johnson, R. B. Taylor, and Faulkner. All
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except the last three met at the tavern designated, which was the predecessor of the present Mountain Top, and was kept at the time by two brothers named I^eake, kinsmen of the late Hon. Shelton F. Leake. Their hall of assembly was a low, whitewashed room, furnished with a deal dining table and split-bottomed chairs. The Commissioners were men of distinction, yet with them as with others local predilections had their weight. Jefferson, who was chosen president, strongly endeavored to secure Central College as the site. Two other places were proposed, Staunton and Lexington. After mature consideration the vote was taken, and stood sixteen for Central College, three for Lexington, and two for Staunton. The work was virtually accomplished. On Jan- uary 25th, 1819, Central College was by the Legislature transmuted into the University of Virginia.
The erection of buildings which had been begun bj^ the authorities of Central College, was already in a good degree of forwardness. The plan of the whole group, as well as the styles of the particular edifices, had been designed by Mr. Jefferson himself. All the residences, or pavilions, as they were called, and all the dormitories, on the West Lawn were put up, and the interior wood work and plastering were in progress. This was true also in regard to the first and sec- ond pavilions, that is, the two most northerly, and ten dormi- tories, on East I,awn. No contracts had yet been let for the remaining buildings ,the three southern pavilions and the other dormitories on Kast Lawn, and the hotels and dormitories on the East and West Ranges. Nor was any mention yet made of the erection of the Rotunda. The first pavilion designed in the Doric order, with the four adjoining dormitories, on West Lawn was built, the brick work by Carter and Phillips, and the wood work by James Oldham. Matthew Brown did the brick work, and James Dinsmore the wood work, of the second pavilion in the Corinthian order. The third pavilion in the Ionic order, with the seven nearest dor- mitories, was erected, the brick work by John M. Perry, and the wood work by Perry and Dinsmore. The fourth pavilion in the Doric order, with fifteen dormitories adjacent, was
HISTORY OF AL,BEMARLE 93
Luilt, the brick work by Matthew Brown, David Knight and Hugh Chisholm, and the wood work by John M. Perry, The fifth pavilion and one dormitory were built, the brick work by Carter and Phillips, and the wood work by George W. Spooner and John Neilson, The entire work of pavilions one and two, with the ten adjoining dormitories, on East Lawn, was contracted for by Richard Ware.
According to Mr. Jefferson's report in 1821, the cost of the ten pavilions was estimated at eighty -six thousand dollars, of the one hundred and nine dormitories at sixty-five thou- sand, and of the six hotels at tv/enty- four thousand. The entire sum for land, buildings and labor was placed at two hundred and seven thousand. The construction of the Rotunda proved to be an expensive undertaking. An esti- mate published in Niles's Register in 1826, set down the cost of the complete establishment at about four hundred thousand dollars.
The scholastic duties of the University began at length on March 7th, 1825. The number of students present at the opening was forty; the whole number matriculated during the session up to the last of September, was one hundred and sixteen. The Central Gazette issued on the seventh of March noticed the opening, and stated "that many were said to have been prevented from being present by heavy rains and bad roads."
In the early days of the University there was a greater tendency to disorder among the students than has since been apparent. In 1836 wild and boisterous spirits prevailed to such an extent that the firm hand of Benjamin Ficklin was required to repress their effervescence, and in 1840 the deplor- able death of Prof. John A. G. Davis occurred by the rash violence of a student. But the height of these excesses produced a reaction, and led to a more quiet and rational line of conduct. It may be safely afiSrmed, that in the history of the institution as a whole, there have been as little turbu- lence and destructive riot as in any assemblage of like kind in the country. In truth, notwithstanding reports to the contrary, the most healthful moral influences have been in
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operation from the beginning. In 1828 the faculty by their formal action invited Rev. F. W. Hatch and Rev. F. Bow- man, the only resident ministers in the town, to preach alternately every Sunday at the University. In 1830 a Tem- perance Society, holding regular sessions, was formed among the students. Its first officers were J. W. C. Watson, Presi- dent, Thomas H. Hamner, first Vice President, Socrates Maupin, second Vice President, and Samuel Scott, Secretary, and a hall was erected for its special use in 1856. About 1830 a chaplain was chosen by the faculty to officiate regu- larly in the institution, and for more than sixty years this office was statedly filled, and supported by the voluntary contributions of the professors and students; and in 1854 a comfortable house was built on the University grounds as the chaplain's residence. During the period when the scenes of gieatest disorder occurred, a weekly prayer meeting was maintained among the students by the energetic zeal of such men as Dr. Frank Sampson and Rev. Dennis Dudley, then prosecuting their academic studies ; and later a Young Men's Christian Association was formed within its walls, which was the first organized body of the kind in the countr5^
In those early days the students of the University wore a uniform. It consisted of a suit of grayish cloth, called Ox- ford Mixed, specially imported from year to year by John Cochran, the coat braided on the collar, and the pantaloons striped at the sides. This badge of distinction gave rise to an extensive industry in Charlottesville. From a hundred to a hundred and twenty journeyman tailors were engaged in its manufacture, and the firm of Marshall & Bailey, Shoemakers, employed from thirty five to forty hands in their lousiness.
The Public Hall annexed to the Rotunda, and destroyed by the fire of 1895, was commenced in 1851 , and in 1859 Daw- son's Row was erected. These buildings were constructed with the ijrocjeds of a farm devised by the will of Martin Dawson, a citizen of the county, who died in 1835. By the sale of this farm, the sum of fourteen thousand dollars was realized. The Chemical Laboratory was erected in 1870,
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 95
the Brooks Museum in 1875, and the buildings of the Mc- Cormick Observatory in 1881. In 1859 a parcel of land be- longing to Mrs. Sophia Johnson, containing several springs, and lying in a ravine north of Observatory Mountain, together with the right of way for pipes, was condemned for the use of the University. A reservoir was formed in the ravine to furnish the institution with a supply of water.
96 HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE
CHAPTER V.
The only reference to the war of 1812 in the records occurs in 1866, where an enumeration of the family of James Michie, Jr., was presented to the Court. It was there stated, that in that contest that gentleman was a corporal in the company of Captain Estes, of the Virginia militia, and that a land war- rant for one hundred and sixty acres was issued to his descendants on that account. It is ascertained upon inquiry that a cavalry company from the county commanded by Colonel Samuel Carr, and of which Dr. Frank Carr was Surgeon, and an infantry company of which Achilles Broad - head was Captain, were also. called into service. From the same source it is learned that William Wertenbaker was a private in Captain Estes's company, and Henry Turner, the father of the venerable William H. Turner, served in the cavalry. To what point these troops were marched is not known; but as the enemy never landed on the soil of the State, no occasion happened for their employment in action. In a letter dated September 1814, and written by William Wirt, who commanded an artillery company in camp on York River, he says, "Frank Gilmer, Jefferson Randolph, the Carrs and others, have got tired waiting for the British, and gone home."
Captain Estes above mentioned was Triplett T. Estes, who for many years kept the Stone Tavern on the square on which Lipscomb's livery stable stands. In the appointment of Processioners in 1811, he is designated as Captain of the militia company in the district immediately south of Char- lottesville, and to which the inhabitants of the town belonged. He was unfortunate in his business affairs. He purchased the Stone Tavern with its surrounding square, but was un- able to make the payments. At one time he also owned the farm on Biscuit Run which Martin Dawson afterwards devised to the University ; but that together with all his property
HISTORY OF ALBEMARLE 97
was sold under deeds of trust. About 1819 he removed from Charlottesville to Fredericksburg, and in 1832 was living in Dinwiddie County, probablj^ in Petersburg.
In 1816 the County Court received a communication from the State authorities, requesting a survey of the County to be made in order to the preparation of an accurate map of the State. In compliance with this request they appointed Dabney Minor, Dr. Frank Carr and Dr. Charles Brown to arrange for the survey; and in answer to their overtures William H. Meriwether proposed to undertake the work. It is supposed he carried it into effect; but no details of the time or manner of its accomplishment have been found. The results of this and other similar surve5's throughout the State, were committed to John Wood, an eminent engineer of the day. He however died in 1822, before the completion of his task. The fruits of his labors, with all the materials which had been collected, were then entrusted to Herman Boye. By the contract entered into with him, the map was to have been finished on the first of April 1824, and in all likelihood it was published during the course of that year. A well preserved copy formerly hung in the University Library in the Rotunda, but it no doubt perished in the fire of 1895. Two or three other copies in private hands, much defaced by time and want of care, have been met with in the county.
The Legislature passed an act in January 1818, establish- ing the town of Scottsville on James River. This point had been well known from the beginning of the county. In its proximity the first courthouse had been located, and for seventeen years was the centre of public business for all the surrounding country. It can hardly be questioned that the people of the neighborhood looked upon it as a heavy blow, when the seat